The 4 Basic Elements to building a Green Home

Green construction is more than the actual construction of your home, though that is a big part of the process. It is a beginning to end process which begins with the option of your land, the organize of your dream home, the materials and practices used while construction and finally, how you control and sound your dream home once it is completed. You can integrate as many or as few of these elements into your home's organize as you choose.

You resolve how "Green" you want to be.

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Let's look at the four basic elements in Green Building:

1. Expanding vigor efficiency

2. Materials superior for construction your home

3. Expanding the efficiency of water usage both in and exterior of your home

4. Enhancing air quality, which improves the health and productivity of your family

There are many parts to each element. Let's look at each of these in a tiny more detail

1. Expanding vigor Efficiency

Advanced Framing - Use a framing undertaker of a package deal who can apply industrialized framing technique while the construction of your home. This creates a structurally sound home with improved vigor efficiency, and lowers material and labor costs. This technique replaces lumber with insulation material and maximizes the wall that is insulated, Enhancing the R-value of the home. On average, industrialized framing uses 30% less lumber, which reduces the construction costs and saves 2% to 4% of the total vigor use. Hot Water Heater - Water heating can list for 14% to 25% of the vigor consumed in your home. To increase the efficiency of your hot water heater, locate it near the highest point of usage. This is typically near the shower followed intimately by the clothes washer. Pipes - Insulate the hot and cold water pipes within 3 feet of the hot water heater. This reduces standby heat loss. Your hot water heater is continuously heating the piping and water in it, even when no water is being used. Household Appliances - A green built home features appliances that are as vigor sufficient as possible. The U. S. Group of vigor and the U.S. Environmental security Group have industrialized a program called vigor Star which labels those appliances meeting literal, vigor sufficient criteria. The typical household spends ,900 a year on vigor bills. As you can see in the diagram above, a great deal of that vigor is consumed by the appliances in your home. Energy Star qualified appliances integrate industrialized technologies that use 10-50% less vigor and water than suitable models. Just look for the vigor Star label. The Federal Trade Commission requires that refrigerators, freezers, water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers and window air conditioners be labeled with an vigor Guide Label. The label for a hot water heater is shown here. This hot water heater uses 268 therms per year of vigor and is being compared to other similar models which use everywhere from 238 to 273 therms per year. This model's estimated annual operating cost is 2.When comparing different appliance brands for your new home, be sure to look at their estimated vigor consumption. This will impact the operating cost of your home for years to come.

Air Sealing - This is industrialized caulking which is a part of the airtight drywall arrival (Ada). Specifically, caulk or gasket drywall is installed on exterior walls at the top and lowest plates, windows and door frames; on interior walls at the intersections with exterior ceilings; and at electrical, plumbing or mechanical penetrations in the drywall. This arrival minimizes heat loss in your home. Work with your drywall undertaker of a package deal to see if he/she uses this method. Radiant fence - Reflect heat away from your home by installing a radiant fence (a sheet of aluminum foil with paper backing) on the underside of your roof. This significantly lowers your cooling costs by reducing your heat gains straight through your ceiling by 95%. Insulation - Add insulation to your attic to keep the heat in your house. There are some environmentally friendly insulation products made from recycled blue jeans, soybeans, cotton or newspapers. Solar Power - If the sun shines on your home for most of the day in the winter, you have the possible for solar power to reduce your vigor costs. A good solar organize allows the winter sun to reach a thermal mass like a tile floor which holds heat and radiates it into your home for a duration of time. Lighting - setup high-efficiency lighting systems with industrialized lighting controls. This allows you to only use the light when you need it. Replace original incandescent lights with energy-efficient ageement fluorescent bulbs. These bulbs will use 75% less electricity and last up to 10 times longer. When designing your home or remodeling project, introduce natural daylight into as many places as possible. Thermostat - Use a programmable thermostat to contribute you and your family the ease you want day and night while minimizing heating use when you don't need it. Ducts - Seal your ducts with mastic and insulate them to R-11. This minimizes the heat loss from your home. Paints - You can mix non-toxic ceramic powder into your interior paint to insulate your walls and reduce the estimate of heat passing straight through to the outside. These ceramic particles originate a radiant fence that reflects the heat back into the room. Redirect The Heat - If you have a ceiling fan, redirect the heat back into your room by reversing the direction of the blades to counterclockwise. This brings the heat back down into your room.

2. Materials superior for construction Your Home Plastic Lumber - This goods can be used for non-structural applications such as fences, benches, decks, retaining walls, and picnic tables. It is weather and insect resistant, and will not crack, splinter or chip. It does not need painting and will not leach chemicals into the ground or exterior water. By doing this, you minimize the estimate of lumber used in your home, reduce your ongoing maintenance costs, and you won't harm your local habitat.
The Us is home to 4.5% of the people but is responsible for over 15% of the world's wood consumption. Engineered Wood - This combines the raw materials of wood veneer and fiber with adhesives to produce such laminated lumber as wood veneers, I-beams and roof and floor trusses. The manufacturing process uses fast growing, small diameter trees, allowing more than 80% of the log to be used in the end product. This produces a goods which is very consistent and stable while decreasing the impact on a natural resource. Fiber Cement Siding - This is a composite of cement and wood fiber reclaimed from wood processing waste or small diameter, fast growing trees. It produces a siding which is durable and low maintenance. Many fiber-cement composites offer a 50-year warranty, which increases the value of your home and decreases the maintenance costs. Brick -The process of extracting clay for brick results in tiny wasted material. Brick has a limitless lifespan and can be recycled or salvaged after demolition. Recycling - The sufficient use of materials when construction Green comes in two forms. First, recycle construction waste and use reclaimed construction materials while construction when appropriate. Once your home is finished, institution responsible recycling of the materials you use every day. organize - When working with your architect or designer, use suitable dimensions, engineered wood and stacked floor plans to reduce the thorough volume of lumber used as well as the volume of waste.

3. Expanding the Efficiency of Water Usage Both In and exterior of Your Home Porous Paving Schemes - Watertight, or "impervious," surfaces suchas paved driveways, walkways and patios don't allow storm water runoff to infiltrate into the ground's aquatic systems. Using uncompacted gravel, crushed stone and open or porous paving blocks for walkways and other light traffic areas minimizes the estimate of impervious surfaces on your property, allowing storm water runoff. Rainwater range - Rainwater collected from your roof is a free source of landscape irrigation water. This range ideas consists of a convenient roof and guttering system, a warehouse tank and a easy filtration unit. Low Impact improvement (Lid) - This innovative arrival mimics your land's original formula of water run-off instead of disposing and treating storm water in large, costly, end-of-pipe facilities. This can come in the form of open spaces, vegetated rooftops, reduced road widths and curbs, pervious parking lots and sidewalks, medians and other buffer zones using more vegetation. Plumbing - organize your home to use recycled water for toilet flushing. Use ultra low-flush toilets and low-flow shower heads.
Some older toilets use 3-7 gallons per flush while an ultra low-flow toilet uses less than 1.6 gallons per flush.

A family of 4, each showering for 5 minutes per day will use 700 gallons of water per week - a 3 year drinking contribute for 1 man in the Us. Using a high execution shower head uses 1 - 1.5 gallons of water per tiny - up to 60% less than a original shower head.

In Your Yard - Mulch exposed soils in your organery beds and heighten that soil with compost to a depth of 8-13 inches to increase the quality to hold water. select plants that have low water and pesticide needs. Planting trees not only beautifies your yard, but will also increase the value of your home while decreasing your impact on the environment. A singular mature tree can contribute nearly 0 in vigor and resource values in terms of cooling, erosion and pollution control. Plus they reduce your "carbon foot print."
Putting the right plants in the right place and developing quality, wholesome soil means less watering in the summer, less need for chemicals and less waste to worry about.

Chemicals - Avoid outdoor chemicals and fix oil and other fluid leaks to preclude contamination of the water runoff.
agreeing to the Ny State Attorney General's office, 95% of pesticides used on residential lawns are considered possible carcinogens by the Epa.

Hot water - Use recirculating systems for centralized hot water distribution or use "on demand" systems vs. original hot water tanks.

4. Enhancing Air Quality, Which Improves the health and Productivity of Your family The Epa ranks indoor pollution among the top 5 environmental risks. Unhealthy air is found in up to 30% of new and renovated buildings. The electricity generated by fossil fuels for a singular home puts more carbon dioxide into the atmosphere than 2 average cars. Carpet - Using a low pile or less allergen attracting floor covering and pad greatly improves air quality. Wool or Pet floor covering (made from recycled pop bottles) are good choices. In addition, at installation, have the floor covering tacked down, not glued, to reduce pollutants. Many Green Built designs minimize the use of carpeted surfaces, replacing them with hard surfaces which don't have these pollutants and are easier to keep free of dust, mold and mildew. Paints - Use low-Voc (Volatile Organic Compounds, such as formaldehyde) paints. Ventilation - While you want to seal your home to preclude heat loss, this creates a need for mechanical ventilation. Ventilation can be provided by quiet fans with automated controls or by heat rescue ventilators. Talk to your Hvac undertaker of a package deal for the best ideas for your home's design. construction materials - To preclude microbial contamination, select materials that are unyielding to microbial growth. Drainage - contribute sufficient drainage from the roof and surrounding landscape, as well as allow proper drainage of air conditioning coils. Window treatments - Avoid artificial window coverings or those that cannot be cleaned easily.

Even though there is a lot to think about when using Green construction techniques and principles, it is manageable and doable. We here at UbuildIt can help you work with your architect or designer, subcontractors and suppliers to help you build or remodel your dream home while minimizing your impact on the environment. Taking the time to plan and build or remodel your dream home using UbuildIt and Green construction will unquestionably impact you and generations to come.

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reduce Your galvanic Bill - Money rescue Tips We Can All Use

Saving money on your galvanic bill takes some planning and some base sense but most of all, it takes development the endeavor to stick to the plan. We have all heard the phrase - Plan the work then work the plan.

The same principle applies here. Make a plan on how you are going to take steps to reduce your galvanic bill then put send the endeavor on a daily basis to work your plan.

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Here are a few ideas, tips and tricks to get your creative juices flowing to make your energy savings plan:

Summer Tips

Consider a high efficiency air conditioner. A one-time speculation in a new unit could save you up to 30-40%.Clean the outside air conditioner coils. Clean coils increase efficiency and reduce power consumption as well as extends the units life. Clean the outside coils with a water hose. The inside coils should be cleaned at the beginning of the cooling season by a aid technician.Outside condenser units shaded with an awning or by trees reduce power usage by up to 10%.Keep obstructions (plants, grass, shrubs, flowers, etc) away from the outside condenser unit for general air flow.Replace dirty filters for general air flow to keep your system running longer and more efficient.Cool to 78 degrees. energy consumption increases by almost 6-8% for each degree you lower the thermostat.
Winter Tips

Sunlight. Open the curtains where the sun can shine in. Not only will it bring in some extra heat but it might just make you feel more alive while the dreary cold weather days.
Year colse to Tips

Things that make it principal to winterize your home also sway the energy costs for cooling. The leaks that let in cold air while the heating season also let in warm air while the cooling season.Check your home for drafts. outside air can drastically sway the controlled environment you originate inside your home. Check colse to doors, windows, ceiling fixtures, pull down stairways and electrical outlets on outside walls. Door sweeps, outlet gaskets, attic tents and insulation are great one-time investments for energy savings and are normally ready locally.Turn down the thermostat. Reducing the thermostat setting by 10 degrees at night could save up to 10% on your energy costs. Programmable thermostats are ready as a one-time speculation and can be set to deal with this task automatically. Set it and forget it to save energy all year long.Block unused vents. outside vents in unused or unoccupied rooms not only reduces the total space needing heated or cooled but at the same time distributes the tempered air to rooms that are occupied, development them more comfortable for the same number of energy consumption.Clean the refrigerator coil. Refrigerators use almost 8% of your galvanic bill. Over time, the coil gathers dust and becomes less sufficient and runs more to enunciate the temperature inside. Vacuuming or cleaning the coil can heighten the operating efficiency by almost 30%.Use ceiling fans. Attractive the air in a room can make the room feel warmer/cooler without changing the actual temperature.Consider R-30 insulation. Most homes are built with R-15 or R-11 (or less). A one-time speculation in great insulation (higher R-values) will be a persisting savings on your galvanic bill. Poorly insulated attics can lose up to 40% in cooling and 60% in heating. Seal ducts. Poorly sealed ducts can leak 15-40% as well as reduce the air quality by pulling in unwanted airborne contaminants.Florescent lighting. The preliminary speculation is more but they last longer and control with less energy.Bathroom and kitchen ventilation fans. Use only when principal as they pull tempered air out of your home.Foam wrap hot water pipes and water heaters.Turn down the water heater temperature to a maximum of 125 degrees.
Special Tip Utility companies Don't Want You To Know

Time of Use galvanic Rates. Check with you utility firm and examine about the rates at separate times of the day. normally rates are lower after 7pm. If you can move high power consumption tasks such as laundry to off peak hours you will be saving in the rates if not in actual power consumption but the lowest line is you have saved on your galvanic bill.

There are many other ways to reduce your galvanic bill that were not discussed such as solar panels and wind turbines. There are only a few habitancy who can or are willing to invest thousands of dollars into these types of items but there are other practical ways to save a few bucks on your galvanic bill.

The most sufficient way to reduce Your galvanic Bill is to Eliminate Your galvanic Bill. Now this sounds high-priced but the fact is, you can start generating your own electricity for less than 0.

In fact, if you produce more electricity than you use, the galvanic firm is obligated by law to buy it from you at current store price! So imagine this ... Instead of mailing a check to the galvanic firm each month they could be sending You a check each month!

Thank you for your time and interest in learning how to reduce Your galvanic Bill. We wish you the best in planning your strategies and implementing your plan.

reduce Your galvanic Bill - Money rescue Tips We Can All Use

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Used Rv Buyer's Checklist

Whether you are buying a motorhome from an auction or from a reputable dealer, you still have to take great care and spend a long time meticulously checking out all aspects of the vehicle. After all, this purchase that could most likely be one of the largest in your life second only to buying your house.

Don't let yourself get rushed into anyone and take your time development notes as you go. anyone that needs concentration or replacing should be written down (there will always be something) and the cost of the repairs need to be taken into account when negotiating the final price.

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Take a reputable and mechanic with you to look over the mechanical side of vehicle, preferably one who is experienced in Rvs.

Here are some normal points that the Sureterm Direct devotee motorhome team advise you to look out for:

- Batteries: There are usually two lots of batteries in the motorhome. The house batteries for the living area and the vehicle batteries. The vehicle batteries should be able to hold enough charge to start the motor with itsybitsy attempt even from cold and after a duration of non movement.

- Oil: Check out the colour and constancy of the oil. If the oil is burned then it is a sign that something is wrong with the engine. If the oil is thick and gooey and has white foam then this might indicate that additives have been used in an attempt to seal up leaky motor gaskets.

- Brakes: The brakes should be tested wholly on the test drive development sure that they are responsive and bearing in mind that when fully loaded the vehicle will be even more difficult to stop. Check the handbrake will hold the vehicle well too.

- Rust: Make sure that the frame of the vehicle is not rusted as this is a sure sign that the motorhome is nearing the end of its life. Occasional small rust spots on positive parts of the bodywork might be possible to heal without presenting added problems but beware of bubbling under the paint work as this signifies rust that has been painted over. At the first sign of rust you need to observe the extent of the damage and ask yourself how much work is complex in repairing it taking into notice any paintwork that might need to be done at the same time.

- Paperwork: Ask to see as much of the paperwork as you can including the full aid history along with receipts for any other work that might have been undertaken. Look for the amount of previous owners and most leading of all make sure that the Vin amount of the vehicle itself matches that on the accompanying paperwork. Find out how much weight the vehicle can carry. There should be a notice inside (normally on the back of a wardrobe door) stating the net carrying capacity. This is the maximum weight the Rv can carry. This is known as the Ccc. There are de facto many models that are so heavy in themselves that they leave very itsybitsy margin for anyone else and once loaded up with your house and their possessions there is a serious danger of overloading the vehicle.

- House batteries: The house batteries contribute current for all of the internal electrical systems when an external hook up is not available. You need to observe if these are keeping their charge. Check the battery terminals for corrosion. If the vehicle has solar panels fitted you need to observe exactly how much charge is being put back into the batteries.

- Propane system: observe the propane tanks, hoses, and regulators. There might even be certificates of safety for these. Make sure that the refrigerator switches over from gas to galvanic with no problems when an external hook up is connected.

- Toilet: The toilet needs to be able to hold water or the smell from the black water tanks will come back up into the bathroom.

- Flooring: Check over the floors very considered especially colse to the sink and in the bathroom. Make sure there are no soft spots. Any damp or mould could lead to rotting of the wood or rusting of metal. Soft spots will most likely be as a consequent of a leaky plumbing system.

- Ceilings: As with the floors you need to check wholly for signs of damp or mould. This will most likely start to appear in incommunicable places, up the corners and at the back of the lockers. Any damp patches on the ceiling are more than likely a sign that the roof is leaking. A leaky roof can be extremely difficult and expensive to repair.

- Heating: Test out the heating theory well development sure that there is enough power to heat all parts of the motorhome at once. Make sure that there are heating vents in all the rooms including that bathroom and that when on they blow enough hot air to keep the whole vehicle warm on a cold night as well as providing hot water.

- Air conditioning: As with the heating make sure that this is enough and that it still blows cold air. Recharging an air conditioning unit can be quite costly.

- Insulation: Ask about insulation. How will it stand up to the cold nights? Are the water tanks insulated?

- Comfort: Spend some time sitting in the chairs and lying on the bed. You need to know if these are comfortable and positioned correctly. Can you lie on the bed without your feet hanging off the end? Can you see the Tv from the chairs without straining your neck? Is there enough room to eat comfortably at the table? Are there enough stove burners? Is the kitchen counter space adequate?

- thorough check: Finally, make sure you do a standard normal check of everything. This includes tuning on and off all you can. Make sure that all the lights are working, both inside and outside. Open every cupboard and locker, check all galvanic items and the electrical outlets. Are the electrical outlets placed in sensible conditions and is there enough of them? Open every door, every vent, every window and panel, both inside and out.

- Insurance: Just before you make your purchase you should check that you are able to insure the vehicle by providing a devotee Rv insurance company like Sureterm Direct with the exact make and model you will be purchasing.

Used Rv Buyer's Checklist

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Top Ten Tips For Going Green in Your market Kitchen

Restaurant equipment and the Green Revolution in commercial Kitchens - Going Green in the commercial Kitchen with Environmentally amiable Products, Pro-environment Practices and a Green Mindset: As manufacturing companies, assistance providers and top decision-makers all over the world look for ways to categorically impact the environment, it's time for the foodservice business to show the way an honest introspection and commit to making changes going green every step of the way.

Introduction

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The foodservice business is globally positioned to usher in the green revolution simply because of the size of the business and requisite vigor consumed. Any changes, no matter how small, that were embraced throughout the business would produce requisite impact. And the change in operational procedures and processes isn't minuscule to the acquisition of restaurant equipment. There are a number of strategies you, as the responsible owner of a foodservice operation, can adopt in your commercial kitchen to run a categorically green execution and not only contribute to a safe environment, but also comfortably impact your bottom line by reducing utility expenses and enhancing wide productivity. Here are ten tips to help you reach this goal in a way that calls for minor modifications in operational practices, laborer training and a dash of plain tasteless sense.

Tip#1: sacrifice Water Consumption

Water consumption in your restaurant, college restaurant or catering execution is inevitable. However, there are many things you can do to cut back unnecessary water consumption and sacrifice usage.

The Dishwasher Fallacy
The commercial dishwasher is perhaps the most leading piece of restaurant equipment you use in your foodservice operation. Unfortunately, most commercial dishwashers are neither vigor effective nor do they sustain water conservation. You may not be able to replace your existing dishwashers with vigor effective ones due to budgetary constraints. However, if you can, reconsider investing in dishwashers and other commercial restaurant equipment that display the vigor Star logo. More about this in a moment. While using dishwashers in your foodservice operation, endeavor as often as potential to set the units to the right cycle. Some utensils may not be as soiled as others and so they may not need to experience an extended cycle. The longer the cleaning cycle, the higher the water consumption. If you have a small execution where dishes are cleaned manually, train your dishroom staff not to leave faucets running continuously. Cleaning and rinsing smaller utensils and china in a large plastic trough will save gallons of water and show a reduction in your monthly water bill, says Laurel Kohl, a senior researcher at the make for Sustainable vigor at Eastern Connecticut State University. Kohl supplementary believes that using tap water for the dining assistance is more earth amiable when compared with bottled water and tends to conserve water resources as opposed to bottled water.

Icing up the Ice Machine
By maintaining a description of the usage of ice at your foodservice facility, try to estimate the number of ice you use on a daily basis and set the yield accordingly. If you are located on a college campus and the students are out for spring break, sacrifice the number of ice machines you control during slower times. This will not only conserve requisite water resources but also the electricity used to control the ice machines.

Low Flow Pre-rinse Spray Hoses and Faucets
Installing low flow pre-rinse spray hoses and faucets is an exquisite way to control water consumption at your facility. Most importantly, ask your maintenance man to come in once a month and check completely for dripping faucets. Since he is the expert, you can ask him to make recommendations with regard to water conservation.

Tip #2: sacrifice your vigor Consumption

Michael Abbate, author of Gardening Eden: How Creation Care Will change Your Faith, Your Life, and Our World believes that the best way to conserve resources is by tracking them and responding proactively before the damage becomes extensive. Reducing your vigor consumption in your commercial kitchen isn't as spellbinding as you think.

Energy Star
If you are planning to replace older commercial kitchen and restaurant equipment, spend in appliances that display the vigor Star logo. This is a government sponsored initiative jointly supported by the Us Environmental protection department (Usepa) and the Us department of Energy. vigor Star appliances are certified to be vigor effective and are validated after stringent testing.

Run easy Checks in your commercial Kitchen
Visually examine all tabletop and heavy-duty restaurant equipment for wear and tear. Take a piece of paper such as a dollar bill and try to slide it straight through your refrigerator doors. If it goes through, you are wasting vigor and probably need a new door gasket. Finally, optimize all your thermostat settings when inspecting your restaurant equipment.

Energy Assessment
Most utility clubs in the Us and Canada will show the way commercial vigor audits of your foodservice facility for minuscule or no charge. Invite one if you haven't done so already. They are the experts and will be able to offer the right type of advice to help you sacrifice your vigor bills. If you have extended warranties on your commercial kitchen equipment, Invite the builder for an all points vigor check. Most manufacturers today are as involved about the environment and conservation as you.

Tip #3: sacrifice Waste

There's no limit when it comes to the measures you can adopt to sacrifice waste in your commercial kitchen. Here are just a handful of suggestions.

Collecting Recyclables
Foodservice operations receive food and supplies everyday and much of the packaging is recyclable. Because you are removing the packaging in order to get to your supplies, it is extremely easy to collect, sort and recycle. Most urban areas offer recycling pickup along with trash collection. If this isn't available in your area, caress a commercial recycler if the quantities are large. Your recycler can sustain you in setting up an easy to carry on program.

Use Compacters and Pulpers
Compactors and pulpers are instrumental in reducing the physical size of trash which needs to be removed from your premises daily. If you did not spend in them while acquiring your restaurant equipment, it isn't too late. Compactors and pulpers go a long way in reducing the vigor resources required to process waste. Agreeing to an vigor Star study jointly sponsored by the Us Epa and the Us department of energy, venture in vigor effective restaurant equipment and other commercial appliances can cut operational costs by up to 10-30%.

Tip #4: Use Environmentally amiable Cleaning Supplies

It has taken some time for the foodservice business to come to terms with the fact that original cleaning products are not only environmentally unfriendly, they may even be perilous to public health in more ways than one. Hundreds of studies have demonstrated beyond doubt that these cleaning products comprise carcinogens and other harmful ingredients. Here is what you can do:

Switch to Natural Cleaning Products
Josh Dorfman, the author of The Lazy Environmentalist on a Budget, believes that we no longer have an excuse not to use eco amiable cleaning products. They are not only categorically available but also priced competitively. Moreover, they won't hurt your employees or send them to the accident room.

Green cleaning no Longer Violates the Codes
Commercial and municipal codes in most jurisdictions have been suitably modified to promote green cleaning. This institution also preserves the potential of water and does not damage ground water tables.

Tip #5: change to Biodegradable Products where possible

Using biodegradable products is no longer a fashion statement but a genuine global initiative. As scientists continue to look for more avenues and sources for eco amiable bio materials, the institution is sure to help minimize supplementary damage to the environment.

Use Biodegradable Packaging
When packaging orders for quick assistance customers, take out orders or left overs, use packaging constructed from recycled paper board. Other biodegradable options you may want to reconsider comprise eco amiable food packaging made of bagasse, or sugar cane fiber.

Bio Plastics
While conservationists argue over how to store toxic waste, a new line of plastic products called bio plastics is gradually gaining hold. Depending on the size and level of your foodservice operation, you can examine the possibility of switching over to bio plastic products. Many articles and reports have recently appeared in trade publications on this branch which you should give a second look. Bio plastic products are normally constituted from corn or potato starch and are known to be 100% biodegradable.

Tip #6: change your Lighting

We all take lighting for granted and perceive its requisite significance only when there is either a black out or a brown out. Like other vigor resources, lighting is an area that calls for immediate intervention.

Energy effective Lighting
According to a study, 13% of your vigor cost is generated by the lighting you setup in your facility. You can sacrifice this ratio by installing T8 fluorescent lighting not only in your commercial kitchen but also in the immediate vicinity. Other measures comprise installing appeal detectors in walk-in freezers, setting up timers in tasteless areas and plain old good sense-asking your assistance personnel to turn off lights when not in use.

Amazing Statistics
According to a study from the Foodservice Technology center at Pacific Gas and Electric, about 80% of the billion consumed by the foodservice sector in vigor costs goes to waste. Unproductive lighting vigor costs form a requisite measure of this excess.

Tip #7: instruction for yourself and Employees

An educated staff is also a competent staff and this adage extends to leveraging the clear vigor of the green movement as well. Here are a few tips and tricks you can consider:

Resources from Manufacturers
Make a few phone calls and you will be amazed to learn the extent to which the manufacturers and distributors of vigor effective restaurant equipment and other commercial kitchen appliances can help you and your employees learn about going green and staying green.

Training Programs from business Groups
Certification and training programs organized by business trade groups such as Leed (Leadership in vigor and Environmental Design) and the Green restaurant association are great places to start. Other training and chronic instruction opportunities are often covered in many trade magazines and ezines.

The Almighty Internet
Simply show the way searches on the Internet and uncover relevant resources to help your enterprise go green. Send these links via group messaging to your employees and announce minuscule incentives for those who read these resources.

Tip #8: Buy Local

"Buying local" refers to the institution of sourcing your products locally. This is an environmentally amiable strategy that is bound to pay rich dividends. Here is why:

Vote with your Feet
If you source your food products, cooking supplies and other essentials from within your local community, you can sway the processes used to grow the food. Large volume buyers always have a say in not just the product but also the process. Buying organic or from sustainable resources is a quick step the right direction.

Energy amiable Conservation
Sourcing locally also reduces environmental damage owing to transportation. The closer your produce or other food products are to your location, the less the converyance resources are used.

Tip #9: show the way the Research

The green movement is not a static entity. It is a dynamic, continually evolving global phenomenon that not only calls for but also requires research and study on your part. Such research does not have to be full time. There are plenty of online resources you can identify that will help you uncover potential areas of interest.

Green Blogs
You can also use Technorati or Google Blog crusade to uncover blogs on green issues. Thousands abound. Better still, why not set up your own blog on going green. It is not only free to blog but it can also contribute you with a forum to replacement thoughts, views, ideas and opinions with like minded business professionals who share a tasteless mandate with you.

Rss Feeds
If you are not all that techno savvy and don't have the time to become one, ask your computer assistance provider to send man over to set up an Rss feed for you which covers the green revolution as it pertains to the foodservice industry. You will be impressed with the number of links you will receive every day on the subject. straight through true keyword selection, you will also be able to control the number of focus areas you have configured the Rss reader to aggregate.

Tip #10: Stay Committed

The green movement is not simply a trend or a fad. It is here to stay and continues to increasingly impact every industry, profession and vertical. Even the consumers are on the cutting edge. Agreeing to a study published in 2008 by the National restaurant Association, 62% of customers surveyed indicated that they would prefer to dine at an environmentally amiable restaurant rather than one that did not reconsider the environment as a priority. Therefore, it makes good enterprise and environmental sense to stay committed to the green cause and take care of a back to nature approach in your operation.

Top Ten Tips For Going Green in Your market Kitchen

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4 Strategies For great Refrigeration Efficiency

Now that we are entering the hottest time of the year, it's a good time to inspect the refrigeration units in your bistro and make sure they are operating as efficiently as possible. No matter what you do, you're going to end up spending more money on refrigeration this time of year than any other. However, that doesn't mean you should have to spend any more than really necessary.

Have you optimized your refrigeration efficiency? Doing so can save you a Lot of money. Here's the main areas you should focus on:

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Clean those coils! You've probably heard it before but if you haven't gotten behind your refrigerators and freezers and cleaned off the coils, you need to hear it again. The condenser and evaporator coils take the heat inside your refrigerator and disperse it face the unit, and if air can't pass over the coils, then they radiate heat much more slowly. That makes your unit work harder to keep things cool and it consumes more electricity.

Replace worn or torn door gaskets. The door gasket forms a seal when the unit's door is closed, preventing cold air from seeping out and warm air from seeping in. If that gasket isn't sealing properly, it's costing you money. Condition inspectors also don't like torn gaskets because food bits and grime gain in them and originate a breeding ground for bacteria. Luckily, replacing the gasket is an easy process.

Turn off door heaters. All this heater does is forestall frost from building up on the inside door of your refrigeration unit. Most units don't even have a frost problem, and so the heater just uses up energy. If you do have a question with frost buildup or have water pooling in front of the unit, then you really must have the door heater on. More often than not, however, it's not an issue.

Outfit your walk-in. Strip curtains help drastically cut the loss of cold air when the door to your walk-in is open, and when it's closed, the curtain adds an extra layer of insulation. Also make sure the door latch is working properly and really catching when you close the door. A worn or broken latch means the door gasket isn't fully sealed, and you're losing cold air. Also use a door closer to automatically pull the walk-in door shut speedily after it's opened. The less cold air you lose, the best off you'll be.

It's astounding how much in vigor savings you can comprehend from a few easy steps. Of course, there will all the time be a point where you cannot optimize your refrigeration tool any more, and natural degradation in doing will occur no matter what you do. When the time comes to buy a new market refrigerator or freezer, buy an vigor Star rated model if at all possible. Even if you can't find an vigor Star unit that works for you, plainly upgrading to a new unit will mean best efficiency because new technologies are being added to market refrigeration units all the time, and a new unit will perform best plainly because it's newer.

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Refrigerator Door Seals, pathology and mend

Refrigerator door seals may be one of the most misunderstood parts of the refrigerator. Ask a layman or do-it-yourselfer about why his refrigerator is not functioning or warming properly and the first thing he may say after "I don't work on compressors" is "but let's check the door seals." The door seals rarely go bad or have a problem over the lifetime of the refrigerator. The only door seals I've seen go bad are when dogs or cats chew or grind their claws on them, or kids that like to climb or hang on the refrigerator door. A certainly bad door seal problem is most likely to show up as a defrost problem or frost buildup on the interior of the freezer. This is due to humid air getting into the refrigerator.

Door seals are magnetically held to the door frame to keep the doors closed. Unless the seal is shredded or you can physically see a gap in the middle of the seal and the door frame with the door closed, there is no theorize to theorize a door seal problem.

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To replace the refrigerator door seal, you should have a nut driver of the permissible size. A cordless drill-driver is great choice. A magnetic tip will preclude you from going crazy trying to hold the driver, the screw and the seal at the same time and allow you to unblemished the job faster. There are lots of screws holding the seal on so be prepared. Remove the screws from no more than two sides at a time. One side at a time is better. The idea is to preclude the plastic inner door liner from drifting around. If you have to re align it, it can be a long, frustrating process. The new seal will fit in the same way as the old one came out.

You are much more likely to have a door alignment issue or warping. There's not much you can do with a badly warped refrigerator door except to try to warp it, or bend it, back into shape or replace it.

With the door closed, measure the gap colse to it, top and bottom, left and right. Check if the door edges and the refrigerator edges are parallel. If the measurements indicate that the door is badly out of alignment, re align it by loosening the hinges slightly and shifting the door around. It may take a few tries to get it aligned properly.

Remove anyone that might be obstructing the door seals. Sometimes the kick plate or drawer will get in the way. If it's metal, you may be able to bend it slightly to solve your problem.

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Refrigerator Gasket transfer Tips And Procedures

One of the trickiest maintenance problems you might encounter with your refrigerator in the hereafter is the replacement of the gasket. It is tricky because the gasket is connected to two parts of the refrigerator. You might want to ask man to help you hold the door while you remove the screws.

Step 1: You have to find the right gasket replacement first. Check the valid website of the constructor of your fridge. They usually offer parts. If you can't find the part you are finding for, you can look from appliance market or hardware market for the parts that you need. Make sure it has the right fit. You should know what type of fridge you are using. There are separate gasket sizes for French-door refrigerators, in depth-fridge, lowest freezer refrigerator and so on.

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Step 2: The new gasket usually feels tough and un-bendable at first. To make it more elastic, you can soak it in hot water. This will make the material pliable. Soak it in hot water for at 15 minutes until the material becomes easier to use.

Step 3: remove all the contents of your fridge. Set aside the perishable goods or place them inside a cooler filled with ice. Unplug the fridge and gradually pull it away from the kitchen wall.

Step 4: Get a screwdriver that can remove the screws of the old gasket. Use the driver to remove the screws. Make sure you don't lose the screws.

Step 5: Ask your assistant to hold the door while you loosen up the screw that attaches the door on the outside projection at the upper part of the machine. While loosening the screws, let your assistant partly close the door to fold the old gasket. This will make it easier for the gasket to loosen up. Once you have loosened it up, gradually remove the old gasket.

Step 6: Now setup the new gasket. Considered push the pliant gasket under the metal retainer of the fridge. While you are pushing the gasket, you might want to tighten the screws.

Step 7: Close the door to test the association of the new gasket. It should not have any gaps. If there are gaps, it means a part of the external cover of the refrigerator has been warped. You can try straightening it again.

Step 8: To make sure that air will not leak outside, place Led flashlight inside and turn it on. Close the door and check the side of the door for any leaks.

Refrigerator Gasket transfer Tips And Procedures

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10 Steps to Help Refrigerators Live Longer

Every summer there are countless refrigerators that die unexpectedly. This is often due to the growth in climatic characteristic and the associated humidity. The following are a few suggestions to help your appliance make it through the next summer heat wave.

1. Don't use as an air conditioner. You may laugh, but this is particularly tasteless with the elderly. They often leave the refrigerator door open in the hope of cooling the room. Or they may stand in front of the refrigerator trying to get cool themselves. A chair left sitting in front of the refrigerator is a sure sign.

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2. Don't overload defrost system. Keep packaging of water or juice sealed. Open packaging of liquid will growth the number of moisture deposited onto the cooling coil. This will cause the compressor to run longer. Run times of 16 hours per day are general for refrigerators. Extra moisture could actually growth this to 20 hours per day.

3. Turn off icemaker. Icemakers will furnish a harvest every four to six hours. This is more ice than most families can consume. All the exposed ice cubes will stress the refrigerator in hot weather. Turn off the icemaker until more is required. Depending upon the size of ice bucket, you will probably only need to turn it on every few days.

Put new ice cubes into a sealed container rather than leaving exposed in the ice bucket.

Have even seen a buyer turn off icemaker and cover the ice bucket with plastic wrap. They left the front of bucket open adequate to grab cubes when needed. buyer claimed this idea made ice cubes last longer, and refrigerator run less.

4. Doors not sealing properly. Gaskets full of holes or cracks allow warm air to enter. Or gaskets that are not clean may not seal properly. Clean surfaces with light detergent and warm water.

5. Door warped. When the refrigerator door closes it should seal along its full length. If it seals at one point, but not another, the door itself may be warping out of alignment. This will need to be corrected by a aid company. Until they get there try closing the door firmly (close hard, but don't slam shut). This will often force door to realign temporarily.

6. Don't overload. A approved refrigerator can accept about 50 pounds of new food per day. If you are overloading the food may appear not to cool properly. For example: Why add a whole case of warm soda to a refrigerator on a hot day. Add only what is required for that day. Add extra beverages just before bedtime. The refrigerator will have all night to cool them down.

7. Don't overload door shelves. Contemporary refrigerators can have very large door shelves that are actually overloaded. Heavy items such as glass bottles or large soda packaging should be moved inside. The weight may be pulling the door away from the cabinet. This can cause the gasket to stretch until small openings appear at the corners of the gasket. Warm air can enter.

8. Teach children refrigerator etiquette. Children are notorious for standing in front of the freezer door trying to decree which treat to take. Even a few minutes with the door open can cause the refrigerator stress. Every time it is opened the cold air will roll out. As it rolls out the warmer room air will enter the refrigerators interior. This warm air invasion soldiery the appliance to run longer trying to furnish more cold air.

9. Don't block air circulation. Remove bags, brooms, trays, etc, from the space in the middle of surface of refrigerator and surrounding walls. Refrigerator must be allowed to circulate air around itself. Blocking the airflow will cause the compressor to overheat. An overheated compressor can fast burn out. If refrigerator climatic characteristic suddenly becomes erratic speculate the compressor is overworking.

10. Keep level. If not level the cabinet can go out of square. This is particularly foremost with newer refrigerators because they have very tiny internal bracing. If not properly leveled the cabinet can start to lean. This will influence door alignment and closing.

Doing the above will actually help your refrigerator make it through the heat. The last advice is to simply keep your fingers crossed. Because, if mom Nature decides to send us the full impel of her heat wave that is all that may save your refrigerator from joining the others in the great landfill in the sky.

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Cleaning, Diagnosing and Changing Refrigerator-Freezer Gaskets

Over time, refrigerator and freezer gaskets come to be warped, brittle, dried out, cracked and fail to keep things cold, while expanding power costs. Replacing refrigerator and freezer gaskets will save you money on your power bills, keep your food colder and increase the lifespan of your appliance.

1. Clean your old gaskets: If your old refrigerator and freezer gaskets are not too cracked or worn, try cleaning them first with vinegar.

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2. The gasket test: Stick a piece of paper in the door of your refrigerator and freezer. If you can authentically pull it out, it is time for new gaskets.

3. Order new gaskets: search online for a reputable appliance parts dealer and order new gaskets. If you are unsure about the exact one you need, call the parts dealer, make sure you have your model number handy.

4. Prep new gasket and remove your old gasket: When you get your new gasket it will come in the box all twisted and bent up, so to make it install flush and easier to install, do one of 2 things, whether soak it it warm water or throw it in the dryer for 10 minutes. While your new gasket is loosening up, start your prep work. First, roll back the gasket to expose the retainer bar, loosen each screw about 2 turns each... Do not unscrew thoroughly or you will have problems. Once you have all the screws loosened, pull outward until the gasket comes out from under the retainer bars.

5. install your new gasket: Now that your old, worn out gasket is removed, take your freshly bathed or heated gasket and hold it in place working from one point, push the rounded bead in behind the raised lip of the brackets. As you work colse to the door snug down every 2nd or 3rd screw to keep the gasket in place. Sometimes it helps if you have a flatblade screw driver to push the bead in place, especially colse to the corners. Once your gasket is thoroughly in place, swing the door to the ended position... If it appears to be warped, it probably is because the screws or only snug, so twist it colse to until it looks even. Open it and tighten each screw, keep checking to make sure it is even every incorporate screws or so. If the magnetic seal is not contacting the frame in a place or two, get a hair drier and heat the gasket on high until it expands to the frame. Once the gasket is thoroughly installed, use duct tape to hold the door shut tight for a day or so and it will seat itself.

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Do You Have Ants in Your Home?

On any given day, you may see hordes of ants, marching into your home. They may be searching for food and water, protection from face elements.

Here are some steps you can take to get rid of these industrious creatures.

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Follow the ant to its source of entry, could be a window, molding crevice or floor crack. With Boric acid, form a fence at the source, or use laundry detergent, must be in powder form. If they have attacked any food, take off it to a garbage container, face your home. If they have invaded your kitchen garbage can, take it outside, hose it out and wash with dishwashing liquid. Put any food they have Not found in zip lock bags, or in sealable plastic containers. Or the refrigerator. Ants can jab metal-threaded lids on glass jars. Glass jars are immune from ants, only if sealed with rubber gasket. Once you have secured the food,vacuum up the ant line, along with some cornstarch( this helps to suffocate them inside the bag). Use dishwashing liquid and hot water to wash the area colse to the ant line to erase any scent of the trail. Seal the area where the ants entered; caulk windows and cracks and weather strip doors. Apply duct tape or petroleum jelly over holes as a temporary fix. Go face and see if you can find out where the ants entered the house. They may have used an overhanging branch to enter, if so, trim it off. Check the area in an hour. If you see any singular ants, or scouts searching the area, squash them( sorry!) but they are checking out the area for hereafter invasions! If you wish to wipe out the ant population, use ant traps that contain" Boric Acid". The returning ants poison the whole colony.

I would point out however, that in the garden, ants can play a useful role, so only use the above method if indeed necessary. Here are some tips that may help;

Some natural ant deterrents include crumbled bay leaves, cinnamon, peppermint leaves and cayenne pepper. If an indoor plant is infested with ants, take it face and flood it any times with a hose, to take off them. Insecticidal sprays kill only the ants that you spray, which will be a very small division of a colony, and won't prevent hereafter invasions. Please make sure, if you do use a spray, keep children and pets away.

In the house, I found that sprinkling the doorways with a powder cleaner ie, Ajax, kept the ants from crossing the line of powder and they did not enter the house.

One word of warning!! If you have carpenter ants, which are a larger species, as they burrow into wood and cause terrible damage, do Not keep any piles of decaying wood near your house, as this attracts them.

The methods I have outlined above, if used diligently, should go a long way to eliminate your pesky visitors.

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frequently Asked Refrigerator Questions

The first ask is: Why is my refrigerator not cold enough? Answer: Here are some simple, quick things to check for. Are the lights turning off when your refrigerator door is closed? Are the fridge and freezer doors closing all the way so the gaskets seal? Is the freezer fan running? Is the condenser fan running? Do your condenser coils need a good cleaning? You can check if your fridge light is turning off by standing in front of your refrigerator and open the door quickly, you will be able to see the light turn on then. To check the gaskets, shut a piece of paper in the door, and try to slide it out. If it doesn't pull out then your door gaskets should be fine. To check if the fans are running, just listen to the engine and you can hear them run.

The next often asked refrigerator ask is: My refrigerator is leaking water inside underneath the crispers, where is it arrival from? Answer: regularly this is the defrost water that is leaking into your fridge. Once a day the fridge turns off and the defrost heater in the freezer melts the frost, turning it to water. If the defrost drain is clogged with bits of food or other debris, the water is unable to reach the drain and that is when it spills out into the refrigerator and pools underneath the crisper bins. If your refrigerator has an icemaker, observe the icemaker to make sure that the fill tube is not leaking.

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Another often asked refrigerator ask is: why does my refrigerator feel warm on the front? Answer: Older refrigerators have heaters on the edge of the cabinet to forestall moisture build up, especially in the summer. These heaters had an on/off switch so you could turn it on in humid weather. In newer style refrigerators, the manufacturers had to stop using the electric heaters. So they decided to run condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the heaters used to be. If you feel the fridge getting warm on the occasion of the door you should first clean your condenser coils; if they are dirty that can cause the tubing to be warmer than normal. Check and clean the condenser fan; if the fan motor is too slow it can get very hot to the touch. If your condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running, check the temperatures of the fresh food and freezer section. If the refrigerator is not operating well and the temperatures are warmer than normal inside of your refrigerator that can cause you to feel more warmth than normal.

I hope this article has given you the answers you need for some often asked refrigerator questions.

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commercial Reach-In Refrigerators - Know What to Buy

Commercial reach-in refrigerators are commonly used in restaurants for short term food and ingredient storage, as opposed to large walk-ins that store bulk items long term. Industrial reach-in refrigerators are built for heavy duty use and have a more distinguished compressor than residential refrigerators.

More horsepower means a refrigerator's storehouse space cools speedily and stays cold despite constant door opening. This is vital for food safety, and Nfs regulations want Industrial kitchens to store food products at or below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

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Bottom vs. Top Mounted Compressors

The compressor is the engine of a Industrial reach in refrigerator. Keeping this engine working effectively and efficiently requires a blend of maintenance and environment. Some compressors work great in clear environments than others, and purchasing the right unit for the job and location you have in mind is an foremost decision.

Commercial reach-in refrigerators are made with whether a top or bottom mounted compressor. Top mounted and bottom mounted compressors have advantages and disadvantages, and it's foremost to make your purchasing decision based on where and how you plan to use the refrigerator.

Bottom mounted reach ins:

Are more sufficient in hot environments because the compressor is on the floor, where it is cooler feature an ergonomic storehouse space with more accessible shelving than top mounted units Should not be used where lots of flour (like a bakery) or dust is present as the compressor will clog easily
Top mounted reach ins:

Have great compressor airflow than a bottom mounted unit, production them more efficient. However, this only applies in a cooler environment perform great in dusty environments or where a lot of flour is present (like a bakery) Size and Insulation

Commercial reach in refrigerators come in three configurations: one door, two door, and three door. Doors can also be halved for more compartmentalized storage. When inspecting what size reach in refrigerator is right for your Industrial kitchen, keep in mind that the larger the unit, the more vigor it will consume.

Energy Star has begun rating Industrial reach in refrigerators. Use the vigor Star guide to recognize units that are the most vigor efficient.

Of course, vigor usage must be weighed against the number of storehouse space you need. Probably the most sufficient way to originate your refrigerated storehouse space is in moderately smaller units the closer you get to the hottest part of the kitchen: the yield line.

Start with a walk in for bulk storage, then a two or three door reach in refrigerator stocked with daily or weekly supplies, and close with a one door reach in refrigerator nearest the line for quick and easy entrance by kitchen staff.

All Industrial reach in refrigerators have thick insulation to maximize efficiency and cool air Keeping power. Stainless steel interiors are more expensive than aluminum or galvanized ones, but are stain and rust resistant, can withstand heavy use, and are much easier to clean and sanitize.

Commercial Reach In Refrigerator Maintenance

Most Industrial reach in refrigerators are designed for heavy duty use and should perform at a high level for many years. However, a few very uncomplicated preventive maintenance tasks will help ensure that your reach in refrigerator is working effectively and efficiently.

Keep the compressor and coils clean. The coils are commonly black tubes that are packed together on the covering of the refrigerator on the back side. Wipe dust and dirt off coils and the compressor commonly to maximize life cycle and efficiency.

Make sure the compressor fan has good airflow. A partially blocked or very dirty compressor fan must work harder to cool the refrigerant in your reach in, shortening it's life

Replace worn door gaskets. All Industrial reach ins have thick self-sealing gaskets on their doors to make sure cold air can't flee from the unit. Over time, these gaskets wear out and lose their effectiveness. A good indication your door gaskets need replacing is the constant nearnessy of frost on shelves and food products.

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