Wednesday, March 14, 2012

latest Range of Lg Fridge Freezers

It seems that the current must-have kitchen appliance is a big fridge freezer. The Americans got there first, but the Uk is catching up quickly, and bigger is unmistakably better. But it's not just size that counts - looks are prominent too - and if you have a modern kitchen, one of the new American-style fridge freezers from Lg will complement your built-in units and other appliances magnificently.

Lg may not be the first enterprise that you'd think of when selecting a new fridge freezer, as the Korean maker is perhaps good known in the Uk for its movable phones and flat screen Tv's, but the most recent range of fridge freezers from Lg will look plainly astonishing in your kitchen. However the range of products on offer can be quite confusing, so in this description we take a look at the most recent batch of Lg fridge freezers released just in time to store the Christmas 2010 leftovers.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

The top-of-the-range products in the range are the American-style side-by-side fridge freezers, which are the largest in the range and offer the convenience of having both the refrigerator and the freezer sections at eye level. The three models of this type are the Lg Gs7161Aelv, with a gross capacity of 613 litres and a Brushed Steel finish; the Lg Gwl227Hhxv, with a gross capacity of 606 litres and a Shine-Steel finish; and the Lg Gwb207Fvqa, concluded in slick White and with 591 litres gross capacity.

Features coarse to all the side-by-side range are:
• Total No Frost, which eliminates the hassles of defrosting, keeping the inside of the refrigerator de-iced, odour-free, and easy to clean. And, because the refrigerator isn't working harder to compensate, it saves you money on your power bills.
• The Moist equilibrium Crisper uses a unique, lattice-type sheet that prevents moisture accumulation in the warehouse bins, keeping fruit and veg fresher for longer.
• A Bioshield, which sounds like something out of a Sci-Fi film, but plainly means that the gasket is treated with an anti-microbial agent, preventing mould growth which could distort and stain the seal.
• Led Display located on the covering of the door to enable easy adjustments to all settings.
• Digital Sensors - monitor temperature throughout the engine to mouth the fridge and freezer compartments at the desired temperatures.
• Door Open Alarm.
• A child lock, helping to keep your children safe and your food safe too!

The Gs7161Aelv is the largest of the three, measuring 894 x 1753 x 790 mm (Width x Height x Depth) with a refrigerator capacity of 372 litres and a freezer of 172 litres. The Gs7161Aelv features a door-mounted ice maker. The Vacuum Fresh selection sucks air out of the vegetable compartment to keep your veg fresh for longer. Refrigeration is in case,granted by a linear compressor, which is quieter and more power efficient than approved compressors. power efficiency is also aided by the use of long-life Led lighting instead of approved light bulbs. You should be able to buy the Lg Gs7161Aelv for nearby £1,300.

The Gwl227Hhxv is the middle-sized unit, measuring 894 x 1753 x 753 mm (Width x Height x Depth) with a refrigerator capacity of 365 litres and a freezer of 172 litres. Like its larger brother, the Gwl227Hhxv uses a linear compressor, making it quieter and more power efficient than a approved fridge freezer. It also has the Vacuum Fresh feature and a door-mounted ice maker. The Gwl227Hhxv is a plumbing-free fridge, so no pipes need to be plumbed in and there's no need to change a water filter. Instead you just need to fill a fitted container with fresh water to create chilled water and ice. You should be able to buy the Lg Gwl227Hhxv for nearby £1,000.

The Gwb207Fvqa is the smallest of the three, measuring 894 x 1753 x 725 mm (Width x Height x Depth) with a refrigerator capacity of 349 litres and a freezer of 178 litres. It is the least power efficient of the three units, bright almost 20% more power than the two larger machines as a follow of using a approved compressor to contribute refrigeration. It also lacks an ice dispenser, although there is a general ice tray in the freezer compartment. You should be able to buy the Lg Gwb207Fvqa for between £600 and £700.

Hopefully this description has helped to illustrate the differences between these three fridge freezers. Needless to say, all three are great-looking products from a reliable maker and any one of these would be a welcome addition to anyone's Christmas stocking!

latest Range of Lg Fridge Freezers

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Saturday, February 11, 2012

Tips on Taking Care of Your Washing machine

I just love contemporary conveniences. Think the contemporary washing machine for fabrics gone are the days when we had to take our basket of clothes to the creek to scrub the dirt on rocks rinsing by hand. Or how about scrubbing them in the sink at home and then running them through the old hand ringer. Ok I bet none of us have ever hand scrub our clothes on a rock.

Modern conveniences are wonderful, but with those marvels come consuming parts that can and will plug, and break.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Here are some tips for caring for your washing machine.

Never over load can the washing machine, too much weight throw it out of balance forever.Pay attentiveness when you put the soap in, more is not all the time better.The knobs are brittle and should not just be spun with the force of an ape. You can damage the timer which is often the most high-priced part or break the plastic dial off.Do run the machine empty with hot water and a quarter cup of baking soda to help clean the inside of the drum. Run the machine on and extra rinse to get all the baking soda out.Here is a tip that should be surely useful. You may have consideration that your washing machine fills slower in cold than it used to it just seems to have gotten slower over time. Where the water hose connections attach on the unit on the line marked cold there is a filter in the hose and over time the filter gets plugged.Locate the cold water hose and turn off the valve.Remove the hose from the back of the washing machine (have a bucket to catch the water left in the hose.Look in the hole on the washing machine.Using a pair of tweezers remove the cone shaped filter.Take the filter to the sink and rinse until it is clear.Put it back together the way it came a part.Turn the washer on in cold and consideration how the pressure picks up. You will need to clean that filter out every so often.
There are some tasks when it comes to holding your washing machine repair you may need an appliance guy for be sure to get a reputable guy recommended by the dealer. As a bonus here are some tips for your dryer.

Do not over load the machine.Do clean out the lint trap the unit has to breathe.Do check the hose for the vent to make sure it is clear and venting correctly.

Tips on Taking Care of Your Washing machine

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Friday, February 3, 2012

How To Find A Cheap Pellet Stove

Lately, quite a few visitors have arrived at my web site by using the hunt phrase "cheap pellet stove". There aren't any articles to help you find a cheap pellet stove, so I shopped nearby and came up with these suggestions for inexpensive, ability built stoves from reputable manufacturers.

The first stove that comes to mind is the PelPro model Hhpp2Bd wood pellet stove. This unadorned stove, known alternately as "Cheap Charlie" and "Franklin 120 Home Heater" has a 120 lb hopper capacity and generates 15,000 - 50,000 btu's per hour; sufficient heat for 800 - 2000 sq.ft.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

This popular stove can be purchased online at Homeclick for 02.95, shipping included. However, you can buy the same stove for 99 by visiting an Aubuchon Hardware store in person. Added savings can be realized if you buy your stove in a state with no sales tax, such as New Hampshire.

How you pay for your stove is equally leading as how much you pay. If you finance the buy of your stove with a prestige card, the money you saved by being a savvy shopper will be spent on prestige card interest.

The best time to buy a wood pellet or corn stove is while the summer when everybody else is finding for air conditioners. There's no calculate you can't business agreement with the salesman just as you would when buying a car.

However, if you wait until January, when ask is high, you won't be in a position to bargain. It's hard to business agreement when there's nothing left to buy.

Another cheap pellet stove is the United States Stove model #6039 multifuel stove. A multifuel stove offers the versatility of burning whether corn or wood pellets, whichever is cheaper.

At usstove.com, the model #6039 multifuel stove is selling for 00. Going back to Aubuchon Hardware, it's 99.99. And if we do just a petite more shopping around, we can find the exact same stove on sale for a petite time at Orscheln Farm and Home for only 99.

One more cheap pellet stove worth finding at is the Breckwell Big-E Utility pellet stove. This 50,000 btu stove heats 2,000 sq. Ft. And comes qualified with high priced stove features such as self-acting ignition and a large 140 lb. Hopper for 49.

While I was doing the investigate for this article, I came over some reviews for the Big-E stove. The only common complaint was holding the viewing window free of soot.

If this was the only problem, I wanted to know if the reviewers were still enthusiastic about their Big-E stoves. So I sent out some emails, and the next day two of the traditional reviewers were kind sufficient to respond.

M. T., from Belchertown, Ma., gives some perfect advice to first time stove buyers.

"Sam:
Yes you can use my comments. I swear by this stove, one of the best investments I have ever made. I burn roughly 3 ton a year in my 1400 sq ft ranch with a temp of about 75-78 degrees in the living area and 70 in the bedrooms.

It runs just like a furnace. I have it on a milli-volt thermostat that can be set to different temps 4 times a day. It turns on and off on its own to satisfy the thermostat. It just does its own thing and keeps us toasty. The hopper is also big sufficient that I don't have to feed it daily.

Breckwell is very fast to respond. I called Breckwell last week to order some combustion gaskets, They picked up the phone on the 2nd ring and I had my gaskets in a few days.

One last note, people need to do fullness of investigate on who they buy the stove from online. I did a lot of investigate on the type of stove to get, I didn't do a lot of investigate on the online store. That is my only regret."

From Tipton, Indiana, W.F. Had this to say about the Big-E.

"Hi,
No, I don't mind if you use the info, that's what it's there for, to help others. As for Added comments, I would just say that premise is pretty simple, the stove is very dependable so far, and that the only hassle is the same as with any other, Clean up. Ugh."

Finding a cheap pellet stove to warm your home is easy with these tips for success: Know how much you can afford. Be on the look out for a sale. Know who you're buying from. Pay cash or find a dealer that offers 90 days same as cash. Buy lots of Windex.

How To Find A Cheap Pellet Stove

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Friday, January 20, 2012

Why Should You change Your Refrigerator Water Filter Every Six Months?

The life of refrigerator water filters is dependent upon the volume of contaminants in the water as well as the amount of use of the filter. Well water is more likely to comprise contaminants not found in publicly treated water and may need more frequent filter changes. As a rule of thumb, the filter should be changed as specified by the builder or at least every six months.

Carbon is the primary substance used in water filtration methods because carbon has the potential to suck in many of the chemicals found in water. Most refrigerator water filters, which meet Nsf/Ansi 42 certification standards, use granular activated carbon (Gac) to attract chemicals and impurities responsible for bad taste and odor, such as those that are a by-product of chlorine. These filters are not capable, however, to rid water of more dangerous, health-threatening contaminants. The recipe by which water is channeled straight through Gac filters does not allow sufficient time to complete the absorption of such substances. Various bacteria are formed, trapped and allowed to multiply, which supplementary contaminates water processed by the filters. Carbon is not capable to suck in heavy metals, such as lead. Gac filters may trap some heavy metals and sediments, but allow others to filter straight through to the production water. Failure to convert the water filter, every six months, allows unabsorbed water contaminants and newly formed bacteria to saturate the filter, forcing the filter to leak contaminants back into processed water. The water production may comprise more contaminants than the filter was intended to take off in the first place.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Technology has lead to the development of more absorbent carbon-based filters, solid carbon block filters. These filters comprise solid blocks of carbon to suck in contaminants from water. Water takes longer to strain straight through carbon blocks than it does carbon granules, so that carbon blocks contribute sufficient time for the absorption of more health-threatening containments. While carbon block filters are capable to suck in toxics, pesticides, Tthm's and other contaminants, they cannot suck in heavy metals or contaminants that are by-products of agricultural fertilization, such as nitrates or sulfides. The blend of carbon blocks allows them to restrain heavy metals and bacteria away from production water, however, nitrates and sulfides are not filtered. Even so, carbon block filters are sufficient to meet Nsf/Ansi 53 certification standards. Failure to convert carbon block filters, every six months, allows contaminants to saturate the filter, forcing the filter to leak contaminants into the processed water. When sediments are not removed from water, those sediments buildup and corrode filter fittings and water fixtures, causing them to leak. This type of damage to filters and fixtures may cause the production water to comprise more contaminants than the water input to the filter. Failure to convert the filters might also sell out the water pressure, within the filtering system, forcing it to be ineffective.

Some refrigerator water filters may comprise fiber water filters. These filters are made of tightly wrapped fibers of rayon or spun cellulose, which trap rust, lead and other sediments found in water. When used alone, these filters are ineffective in reducing any chemical or health-threatening contaminants. Fiber filters are best powerful for use with other types of filters to sell out the attention of sediments. They should be replaced, every six months, to avoid a build-up of sediments that would force the filter to leak the contaminants back into the processed water.

To learn more about Refrigerator water filters or other types of water filters visit http://www.filtersfast.com.

Why Should You change Your Refrigerator Water Filter Every Six Months?

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Wednesday, January 11, 2012

How to go for a Refrigerator

Not knowing how a refrigerator works, how do you pick the ones that will work best for your operation? Manufacturers all have printed specifications, and your dealer or tool advisor will have recommendations. Some of the criteria you'll choose from follow. Finishes. The exterior of your refrigerator should be as sturdy as its interior components. Favorite finishes comprise stainless steel, vinyl-coated steel, fiberglass, and coated aluminum; the latter comes in rolled, stucco, or anodized styles. Unlike home models, there are not as many ceramics or baked-enamel finishes in the market world. In fact, some health departments do not allow these finishes in market or institutional installations.

Construction. You can't kick the tires, but obvious quality features will be evident, such as allinclusive sturdiness, door alignment, and how securely the deal with is attached to the appliance. All-metal, welded building is a plus, and having a seamless interior. Compartment is an Nsf International requirement. In fact, the Nsfi has a whole section on refrigeration, approved by most cities as minimum standards. Also, look for ease of cleaning and self-defrost features. Insulation. The most ordinarily used type of insulation is polyurethane, in sheets or foam, which has excellent insulation qualities and even makes the cabinet a bit sturdier. Make sure it is non-Cfc polyurethane foam, with at least an R-15 rating.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Fiberglass is also acceptable, although it requires greater thickness to perform the same results as the polyurethane. Doors. A small but necessary detail is whether you want the door to open from the left or from the right side. There are also half doors (you conserve cooling power by only chance half the refrigerator at a time) or full-length doors; the doors can be solid or made of shatterproof glass; they can have hinges or slide open and shut on a track. The way doors are opened can impact traffic patterns in the kitchen (see Illustration 10-9). Doors can also be self-closing, with magnetic hardware, to forestall being left ajar accidentally. The hinges should be stainless steel or, at least, chrome. Look for door gaskets that are easy to snap in place, not the old screw-in kind, as you will probably be replacing them during the life of the unit.

Handles. Stainless steel or nickel-plated handles are best. You can select vertical or horizontal handles. They can protrude or be recessed. Be sure the deal with is included in the warranty, since handles take a lot of abuse and may have to be substituted periodically. Refrigeration system. It may be self-contained or, in the case of very large appliances, a isolate unit. As we've mentioned, it may also be top-mounted or bottommounted. The correct electrical current and capacity of the factory must be known so the constructor can contribute the correct voltage and phase to meet the needs of the space. In some cases, supplementary charge may be complicated to upgrade the electrical system. At any rate, look for the Ul seal of approval, a sign that the unit meets basic electrical safety standards. The law may be water cooled or air cooled. The most coarse in foodservice is the self-contained, air-cooled unit.

Remember, the capillary tube law is for refrigerators used for storage: not much door-opening action. The expansion valve law has quicker pull-down capacity-that is, it can pull the temperature down faster after the unit is opened. It is ideal for busy hot line situations where the refrigerator is constantly in use. Drain Requirements. Most new refrigerators contribute an self-operating defrost law and self-operating condensate disposal, which eliminates the need for a isolate plumbing connection. Ask about it, however. A reminder: The Nsf sanitation standards prohibit drains inside the refrigerator. Accessory availability. You'll get shelves as approved tool with a refrigerator purchase. Make sure they are adjustable. For foodservice, there are lots of supplementary items that might heighten efficiency: adjustable tray slides, drawers, special racks for serving pans (called pan glides or pan slides), and dollies or carts designed to turn a reach-in cabinet to a roll-in one.

Think about these accessories when selecting the door, too. obvious doors seem to work good with some types of add-ons. Warranty. Most manufacturers contribute a one-year warranty on parts in case of defective workmanship or materials; look for a isolate five-year warranty on the motor and compressor unit. Some manufacturers also offer extended aid warranties. Cabinet capacity. A properly designed refrigerator should contribute the maximum amount of usable refrigerated space per quadrilateral foot of floor area, and must be able to adapt the sizes of pans you'll be using. There are plentifulness of complicated guidelines for calculating capacity and needs, which will be covered elsewhere in this chapter. Adaptability. Because today's foodservice operations have changing needs, manufacturers are building in features to maximize flexibility.

One such gift is the convertible temperature option. With a flick of a toggle switch, a freezer can be converted to a refrigerator. It can be a pricey expanding at the time of purchase, but if food storage requirements change, the option will pay for itself instantly. Other divergence is the mixture medium-and-high-temperature cabinet, designed to thaw freezing products speedily and safely by introducing warmer air into the cabinet as needed. supplementary fans and a temperature sensing gismo bring the unit back to its general refrigeration level when the food is sufficiently thawed. And there are hybrids: cabinets separated into two or three sections, each with different cooling capacities.

How to go for a Refrigerator

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Wednesday, December 21, 2011

marine Refrigeration

How does marine refrigeration work? The major parts of a Dc refrigeration system include the refrigerant, a compressor, and a condenser, a cooling system for condenser, and a plate or plates inside the refrigeration box. 

The compressor is part of a accomplished loop pumping refrigerant through the system and through the evaporator plate in the ice box. The compressor has two sides the High side or dismissal side. The dismissal side pumps refrigerant under pressure to the condenser. The suction side or low side and sucks refrigerant after it passes thru the evaporator plate back to the compressor. The cold plates in the fridge space have either expansion valves or capillary tube that detach the low and high pressure sides of the refrigeration system.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

The refrigerant in the compressor starts as a gas. The compressor compresses the refrigerant gas, from low pressure to high pressure in the middle of 100-150 psi. When the pressure is increased like this its climatic characteristic is raised dramatically. This hot high pressure refrigerant is then fed to a condenser, where it is cooled and turned into a liquid. The condenser is cooled by either air or water. The refrigerant is now a cool high pressure liquid and is fed to an evaporator plate inside the boats refrigerator box.

The evaporator plate takes the refrigerant from the condenser and here it boils rapidly & evaporates back to a gas, at a very low temperature. This turn of state absorbs vast amounts of sensible heat from the evaporator which in turn removes heat from the insulated refrigeration box, thereby lowering its temperature. The Btu is the determination of heat removed. From the evaporator plate the refrigerant is returned to the low side of the compressor, to start the process again.

Evaporator or retention Plates

Marine refrigeration systems use either an evaporator plate or a retention plate in the boats refrigeration space or freezer space. Each type of plate works differently in drawing heat from the boats refrigerator and ice box space.

Marine Evaporator

Marine Evaporators are just like the ones found in household refrigerators. They can get quite cold (thermostat setting) and many evaporators have the capability to make ice next to the evaporator plate or inside the evaporator box. Evaporators come in several shapes and sizes; they can be horizontal plate's vertical plates and rolled plates. Evaporators are constant cycling, or short cycle. Most use a Danfoss marine compressor with H134 refrigerant.

Thermostat controlled evaporator temperature. Turn to lower ice box temperature. Evaporator plates are less expensive, but need Constant power supply.

Marine retention plates

Marine Refrigerator retention Plates act like large blocks of ice and the cold climatic characteristic of the retention plate sucks heat out of the boats refrigeration box. retention plates can keep ice boxes cold for long periods.

The main benefit of a retention plate over an evaporator is that they only need to be recharged 1 or 2 times per day. This charging can coincide with attaching to shore power, running the engine and so the refrigerator does not rely on the battery bank. When incorporated into a properly designed system, holdover plates can significantly sacrifice mean energy consumption. However Dc retention plates are also possible.  The retention plate is filled with a solution that has a freezing point below 23 degrees F.  As the compressor runs, the refrigerant passes through the retention Plates coil, freezing the retention plate solution. The compressor turns of and as the retention plate thaws out, heat is removed from the box.

Powering the Compressor

The power provide to the compressor is one of the key elements of the boats refrigeration system. Refrigeration is one of the largest energy consumers onboard, so the power provide is an leading element of the system. Power supplies to marine refrigeration systems include Ac, Dc, Shore Power, engine power, and hybrid systems. Hybrids are combinations of say 12 volt and engine drive, or engine and shore power. The whole point in finding at power provide to your boats refrigerator is to concentrate it into onboard power requirements for all your boats marine systems. If you run a generator much of the time then adding on an Ac refrigeration unit may make sense, but unless you do, you would be best at finding at 12 V, engine or shore power.

Power can be decided on how you use your boat. Are you tied up at a dock for much of the time and take days trips. Or do you cruise and spend large amounts of time at anchor. Finally are you Powerboating or sailing will also influence power supply. sailing means no charging of batteries or power from the engine. Here a solar panel or wind or towed generator can help replenish batteries. If you spend time at the dock, a Dc system has fullness of time to recharge on shore power. If you spend time motoring and at the dock and engine drive with shore assist works well.

Ac 110 volt marine refrigeration     

These drop in refrigerators are like the one in your home and are ordinarily seen on larges boats with an fullness of Ac power and space. The Ac powers the marine compressor, and the condenser is typically air cooled. A dependable Ac provide is needed in the form of a generator.

Dc marine refrigeration with Evaporator plate

 One of the cheapest marine refrigeration system and easiest to setup is the 12 v or Dc system. Air cooling is the simplest. The Dc system combined with an evaporator plate that is thermostatically controlled gives flexibility over cooling requirements. Many 12 volt systems use the Danfoss compressor. With the increased efficiency of the Danfoss compressor, Dc refrigeration onboard is getting more efficient, but is still power hungry.

For most boats with a small box, a singular 12V compressor, air cooled condenser, with evaporator type plate will be about the cheapest option. The Adler Barbour Cold engine has been around for around 25 years and provides great refrigeration for small to medium size ice boxes. 

Shore powered marine refrigeration

Shore powered systems are made to vocalize the boat's ice box at set climatic characteristic when the boat is at the dock. They offer less power than direct from an engine drive but since you will be at the dock for a while that is not an issue.

If you use a retention plate and shore powered system you can keep the plate cool while away from the dock for 12 hours or so.

 Engine powered marine refrigeration

The idea behind an engine driven compressor system is that the engine gets used anyway for at lest an hour or so. If you are Powerboating this makes sense, if you are sailing calculate how much time you use the engine.

If this is the case an engine drive with a retention plate can draw down the ice box in a short duration and after that it can be left for 12 plus hours.

The compressor is run directly off the engine. Belt driven or direct compressor, There are two plates and you can add more, plus ad a detach freezer unit. This creates much power and fast cooling of the retention plate. More power than a 110 volt system. Larger systems and multiple plates are possible. engine driven systems cost more and also involve a labor higher cost    

Condenser Cooling

The marine refrigeration systems condenser needs cooling. This is how the refrigerant gets cooled and turned into a liquid. There are 3 ways to cool the condenser;

Air Cooled

Air cooling simplifies facility plus it does not rely on water or adding thru hulls. It is therefore the cheapest installation. For smaller units air cooling is Ok, say 4 cu ft or under 6 cu ft you will get sufficient performance. The air cooling unit needs a sufficient provide of re-circulated air for it to work. Ducting and space around the unit will help this.

When you cool by air flow you remove heat from the condenser and ad it to the ambient temperature. The climatic characteristic inside of the cabin only has sufficient capacity to disperse this heat.

Water cooled Condenser

Water cooled compressors will work best in higher ambient temperatures and are more effective and can be 30% more efficient. Water cooling may be best and is best for larger installs especially if freezer is concerned. Water cooling needs a thru hull and a pump to get the water to the condenser. The most effective way to cool the condenser

Keel cooler Condenser

The keel cooler or keel condenser requires no thru hull fitting and will not be field to clogging. The keel cooler is a 3" x 7" bronze plate that mounts on the surface of the hull and it is the condenser heat exchanger. The bronze plates are linked direct to the compressor which is the only tantalizing part in the system. The Keel Cooler is for a box up to a 15 cu ft refrigerator or 5 cu ft freezer. Since all the heat is passed into the water surface the boat it will does not heat up the interior. Since it works without a water pump there is never a pump or strainer to vocalize and best of all it is nearly silent in operation.

Refrigeration Compressor & plate Combination

Before we pick a size of marine refrigerator we need to understand what factors are complicated in retention the refrigeration box cool. They are mainly box size, insulation and cooling water temperature, number of population aboard and the climatic characteristic you are setting the plates for.

Refrigerator Box Volume

This is obvious, the larger the box the more heat dismissal is necessary. A larger box will need more Btus of heat removal. After this basic size issue we have things like, Front opening or top opening. Front opening lets cold air out swiftly but does allow you to get to the bottom of the box. Drains, if you had a drain for you ice box plug it. You will not need to drain water out of the ice box and this will only let cold air out and heat in. Gaskets, these are a must and must be properly sealed. A trick to recognize if there are gaps in the gasket is to put a piece of paper in in the middle of the lid or door and the cabinet and close it. Pull on the paper and you should feel some drag if the gaskets are sealing properly. It comes out actually there is a gap. Get new or best gasket material.

Insulation  

Typical insulation to a fridge or freezer is foam insulation like Dow Blue board. The suggestion is for 3-4 inches for refrigeration and 4-6 inches for freezer for medium sized boxes. Foam has an R value of 5 per inch thickness, R being a thermal unit. This means in terms of thermal units 3-4 inches represents 15-20R value for the refrigeration unit, and 20-30 for the freezer.

There are manufacturers of vacuum panel thermal insulation. The Glacier bay fence Ultra-R super-insulation at R-50 per inch provides lots of insulation without taking up critical volume. These panels are vacuum panels and are sealed to work. It is very leading that you do not drill through or puncture these panels. These panels are practice made, so you would need to provide the manufacturer, exact sizes with locations for copper plate tubes to enter the box. These are built into the panels.

Water temperature

In the tropics water climatic characteristic is a lot warmer then northern climates. For every degree water climatic characteristic increases a corresponding 2 % increase in required Btu. If you are in the Atlantic portions of the east coast Us, you have some cool sea water temps, but of you then cruise down to the Caribbean you may strain your refrigeration system.

Plate Thermostat

The evaporator plate climatic characteristic is set by the thermostat. Dial the box climatic characteristic down and the system will have to work harder.

Number of population aboard

More population means the box gets opened more and the heat build up from more population adds to the ambient temperature.

How big a Refrigeration system is required?

To calculate how big a refrigeration or marine freezing unit required, you will need to start with an assessment of the Btu requirements of the box. A simple rule of thumb for estimating the Btus is based on the box volume.

These Btu estimations are based on these assumptions;

- Insulation has an R value of 30 no leaks.
- Water temperatures are tropical in the mid 80s F.
- 2 population aboard, for each extra man add an additional 1,000 daily Btu
- Top opening box, for a front opening door add 15 Btu/inch of door

Btu assessment on refrigeration volume;

Refrigerator daily heat load; 600 Btu per cu. Ft.

Freezer daily heat load; 1200 Btu per cu. Ft

Lets look at how this works for the 4 cu ft refrigeration system, using the above formula

4 cu. Ft. Times 600  =   2,400 Btu.

Two additional population on board =   2,000 Btu.

Total required per day   = 4,400 Btu

Choosing 12 volt unit with Evaporator

Match this number to the compressor capabilities, and then calculate amps needed to power the system, and then work on the battery bank capability. Start by using the 4,400 Btu form the above example. The Adler Barbour Cold engine uses the Danfoss Bd50 Compressor is rated at 650Btu / hr based on 25F evaporator temp.

This is well above the 4,400/day we need for the 4 cu ft fridge, using only about 1/3 of the power. We could actually go down the Danfoss Db35.

Amps

To calculate how many amps the system will draw we start by converting Btus to amps with this formula, using an assumption of 5 Btus per watt hr of energy used. Btu/5/volts. So say we have 4400 Btus and 12 volts, 4,400/5/12=74 amp hours/day.

Battery Bank

The Amps needed to power the compressor should be 1/4 of the capacity of the house bank. So for the above 74 amp hours needed multiply by 4 to get recommended house battery capacity = 296 amp hrs

Conclusion

These days being on the water means retention food and drinks cold. 12 volt refrigeration units are becoming more beloved with technological advances. Greater compressor efficiency and evaporator technology brings 12 volt cooling to the smallest of boats.

marine Refrigeration

refrigerator with bottom freezer

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Refrigeration Maintenance, Walk-In Coolers and Freezers

Most refrigerators and walk-ins seem virtually indestructible and problem free, but you'll get longer life out of yours by following these protection and maintenance tips. Clean the door gaskets and hinges regularly. The door gaskets, made of rubber, can rot more of course if they are caked with food or grime, which weakens their sealing properties. They can be safely cleaned with a clarification of baking soda and warm water. Hinges can be rubbed with a bit of petroleum jelly to keep them working well. Dirty coils force the refrigerator to run hotter, which shortens the life of the compressor motor. They should be cleaned every 90 days, preferably with an industrial-strength vacuum cleaner.

Walk-in floors can be damp-mopped but should never be hosed out. Too much water can get into the seals between the floor panels and damage the insulation. A refrigerator only works as well as the air that's allowed to circulate nearby its contents. Cramming food containers together so there's not a spare inch of space nearby them doesn't help. Also try to keep containers (especially cardboard ones) from touching the walls of the cabinet. They may frost and stick to the walls, damaging both stock and wall. Use a good rotation system: First in, first out (Fifo) is preferable. Or put colored dots on food packages, a different color for each day of the week, so everyone in your kitchen knows how long each item has been in the fridge.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Walk-In Coolers And Freezers

A walk-in cooler is just what its name implies: a cooler big adequate to walk into. It can be as small as a closet or as large as a good-size room, but its traditional purpose is to contribute refrigerated storage for large quantities of food in a central area. Experts propose that your performance needs a walk-in when its refrigeration needs exceed 80 cubic feet, or if you serve more than 250 meals per day. Once again, you'll need to decide how much you need to store, what sizes of containers the storage space must accommodate, and the maximum quantity of goods you'll want to have on hand. The only way to use walk-in space wisely is to equip it with shelves, organized in sections. Exactly how much quadrate footage do you need? The easiest recipe is to think 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of walk-in storage for every meal you serve per day. Another basic calculation: Take the total estimate of linear feet of shelving you've decided you will need (A), and divide it by the estimate of shelves (B) you can put in each section.

This will give you the estimate of linear feet per section (C). To this estimate (C), add 40 to 50 percent (1.40 or 1.50) to cover "overflow"-volume increases, wasted space, and bulky items or loose product. This will give you an assessment of the total linear footage (D) needed. However, linear footage is not enough. Because shelves are three dimensional, you must think quadrate footage. So multiply (D) by the depth of each shelf (E) to regain the total quadrate footage estimate (F). Finally, duplicate the (F) figure, to compensate for aisle space. Approximately half of walk-in cooler space is aisle space. Another favorite recipe is to think that, for every 28 to 30 pounds of food you'll store, you will need 1 cubic foot of space. When you get that figure, multiply it by 2.5. (The factor 2.5 means only 40 percent of your walk-in will be used as storage space; the other 60 percent is aisles and space between products.)

The consequent is the size of the refrigerated storage area you will need. For a walk-in freezer, naturally divide your walk-in refrigerator space by two. Larger kitchens, which serve more than 400 meals a day, may need as many as three walk-in refrigerators for different climatic characteristic needs: one for produce (41 degrees Fahrenheit), one for meats and fish (33 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit), and one for dairy products (32 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit). The walk-in is used most often to store bulk foods. Because this often means wheeling carts or dollies in and out, the floor should be level with the kitchen floor.

This leveling is achieved by the use of strips (called screeds) that are applied to the floor. Coolers don't come as a singular unit; they are constructed on-site. The walls, ceilings, and floors are made of individual panels. Wall panels should be insulated to a rating of R-30, which means a 4-inch thickness. They come in various lengths and widths, with 12-by-12-inch angle panels at 90-degree angles. They can be as short as 71?2 feet or as tall as 131?2 feet. The most base type of insulation inside the panels is polyurethane, and the face walls of the panels can be made of stainless steel, vinyl, or aluminum. Stainless steel is the most expensive, and aluminum-because it's the least expensive-is the most favorite choice. If the walk-in is an outdoor installation, aluminum is the most weather resistant.

The installer will be sure the unit has interior lighting. The floor panels for walk-ins are similar to the wall panels. Load capacities of 600 pounds per quadrate foot are the norm, but if you plan to store very heavy items (like beer kegs), a reinforced floor can be purchased with a load capacity of up to 1000 pounds per quadrate foot. The refrigeration principles of a walk-in is a more complex factory than a approved refrigerator, primarily because it's so much bigger. Matching the principles (and its power requirements) with the dimensions of the walk-in and its projected use is best left to professionals, but it's prominent to note that a walk-in accessed often throughout the day will require a compressor with greater horsepower to avow its interior climatic characteristic than one that is accessed seldom.

A 9-foot-square walk-in would need at least a 2-horsepower compressor. The condenser unit is placed either on top of the walk-in (directly above the evaporator) or up to 25 feet away, with lines connecting it to the walk-in. The latter, for sure reasons, is known as a remote system, and is essential for larger-than-normal condensing units with capacities of up to 7.5 horsepower. In a remote system, the refrigerant must be added at the time of installation. For smaller walk-ins, there's also a plumbing configuration called a quick-couple system, which is shipped from the factory fully charged with refrigerant. This absolutely simplifies installation. However, you may need the added power of a remote principles if your kitchen has any of these drains on the walk-in's cooling ability: frequent door opening, glass display doors, many doors per compartment, or an ambient kitchen climatic characteristic that's near 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Modern walk-ins sometimes offer a frozen-food section in increasing to the quarterly cooler space. There are pros and cons to this concept. It may ease the load on the freezer, because it's already placed inside a chilled airspace; but it also can't help but sacrifice allinclusive usable space, because it requires a detach door. You can also order your walk-in with a separate, reach-in section that has its own door and shelves. Although this may save the cost of purchasing a detach reach-in, some critics claim that a walk-in is not designed to do a reach-in job, such as storing uncovered desserts. Do you of course want them in the same environment as cartons of lettuce and other bulk storage items? There may be cleanliness or food quality factors to consider.

The doors should open out, not into the cooler itself. The approved door opening is 34 by 78 inches. Any door features are prominent for allowable walk-in operation. These include: A heavy-duty door closer. Self-closing, cam-lift door hinges. If the door can be opened past a 90-degree angle, the cam will hold it open. A heavy-duty stainless steel threshold. This is installed over the galvanized channel of the door frame. A pull-type door handle, with both a cylinder door lock and room to use a detach padlock if necessary. Pressure-sensitive vents, which preclude vacuum buildup when opening and conclusion the door. An interior protection release so no one can be (accidentally or otherwise) locked inside the cooler.

Other smart features that can be ordered for walk-ins are: A thermometer (designed for outdoor use, but mounted inside the cooler) with a range of 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A monitoring and recording principles that keeps a printout of refrigeration climatic characteristic or downloads to a computer. Glass, full-length door panels (like those in supermarkets and convenience stores), sometimes called merchandising doors, either hinged or sliding. Heavy-duty plastic strip curtains inside the door. (One maker claims a 40 percent vigor savings with this feature.)

A foot treadle, which enables you to open the door by pressing on a pedal or lever with your foot when both hands are full. Three-way interior lighting, which can be turned on from face or inside the cooler, with a light-on indicator light outside. Inside, the light itself should be a vapor-proof bulb with an unbreakable globe and shield. When space is at a premium, think about either it is practical to setup an outdoor walk-in unit. This is an prudent way to add space without increasing the size of your kitchen, and you can buy ready-to-use, stand-alone structures with electricity and refrigeration systems in place. They come in approved sizes from 8 to 12 feet wide and up to 50 feet in length, in 1-foot increments.

They range in height from 7.5 to 9.5 feet. Look for a unit with a slanted, weatherproof roof, a weather hood, and a fully insulated floor. Outdoor walk-ins cost about half of the price of installing an indoor kitchen walk-in, so this is a money-saving idea if it works in your location. If your demands for walk-in space are seasonal, consider leasing a refrigerated trailer, available in most metropolitan areas on a weekly or monthly basis. They can contribute an instant 2000 cubic feet of further storage space, which can be kept at any climatic characteristic from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They use basic 60-amp, 230-volt, three-phase electricity. Ask if the lease bargain includes hookup at your site and aid if anyone goes wrong.

Refrigeration Maintenance, Walk-In Coolers and Freezers

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