marine Refrigeration

How does marine refrigeration work? The major parts of a Dc refrigeration system include the refrigerant, a compressor, and a condenser, a cooling system for condenser, and a plate or plates inside the refrigeration box. 

The compressor is part of a accomplished loop pumping refrigerant through the system and through the evaporator plate in the ice box. The compressor has two sides the High side or dismissal side. The dismissal side pumps refrigerant under pressure to the condenser. The suction side or low side and sucks refrigerant after it passes thru the evaporator plate back to the compressor. The cold plates in the fridge space have either expansion valves or capillary tube that detach the low and high pressure sides of the refrigeration system.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

The refrigerant in the compressor starts as a gas. The compressor compresses the refrigerant gas, from low pressure to high pressure in the middle of 100-150 psi. When the pressure is increased like this its climatic characteristic is raised dramatically. This hot high pressure refrigerant is then fed to a condenser, where it is cooled and turned into a liquid. The condenser is cooled by either air or water. The refrigerant is now a cool high pressure liquid and is fed to an evaporator plate inside the boats refrigerator box.

The evaporator plate takes the refrigerant from the condenser and here it boils rapidly & evaporates back to a gas, at a very low temperature. This turn of state absorbs vast amounts of sensible heat from the evaporator which in turn removes heat from the insulated refrigeration box, thereby lowering its temperature. The Btu is the determination of heat removed. From the evaporator plate the refrigerant is returned to the low side of the compressor, to start the process again.

Evaporator or retention Plates

Marine refrigeration systems use either an evaporator plate or a retention plate in the boats refrigeration space or freezer space. Each type of plate works differently in drawing heat from the boats refrigerator and ice box space.

Marine Evaporator

Marine Evaporators are just like the ones found in household refrigerators. They can get quite cold (thermostat setting) and many evaporators have the capability to make ice next to the evaporator plate or inside the evaporator box. Evaporators come in several shapes and sizes; they can be horizontal plate's vertical plates and rolled plates. Evaporators are constant cycling, or short cycle. Most use a Danfoss marine compressor with H134 refrigerant.

Thermostat controlled evaporator temperature. Turn to lower ice box temperature. Evaporator plates are less expensive, but need Constant power supply.

Marine retention plates

Marine Refrigerator retention Plates act like large blocks of ice and the cold climatic characteristic of the retention plate sucks heat out of the boats refrigeration box. retention plates can keep ice boxes cold for long periods.

The main benefit of a retention plate over an evaporator is that they only need to be recharged 1 or 2 times per day. This charging can coincide with attaching to shore power, running the engine and so the refrigerator does not rely on the battery bank. When incorporated into a properly designed system, holdover plates can significantly sacrifice mean energy consumption. However Dc retention plates are also possible.  The retention plate is filled with a solution that has a freezing point below 23 degrees F.  As the compressor runs, the refrigerant passes through the retention Plates coil, freezing the retention plate solution. The compressor turns of and as the retention plate thaws out, heat is removed from the box.

Powering the Compressor

The power provide to the compressor is one of the key elements of the boats refrigeration system. Refrigeration is one of the largest energy consumers onboard, so the power provide is an leading element of the system. Power supplies to marine refrigeration systems include Ac, Dc, Shore Power, engine power, and hybrid systems. Hybrids are combinations of say 12 volt and engine drive, or engine and shore power. The whole point in finding at power provide to your boats refrigerator is to concentrate it into onboard power requirements for all your boats marine systems. If you run a generator much of the time then adding on an Ac refrigeration unit may make sense, but unless you do, you would be best at finding at 12 V, engine or shore power.

Power can be decided on how you use your boat. Are you tied up at a dock for much of the time and take days trips. Or do you cruise and spend large amounts of time at anchor. Finally are you Powerboating or sailing will also influence power supply. sailing means no charging of batteries or power from the engine. Here a solar panel or wind or towed generator can help replenish batteries. If you spend time at the dock, a Dc system has fullness of time to recharge on shore power. If you spend time motoring and at the dock and engine drive with shore assist works well.

Ac 110 volt marine refrigeration     

These drop in refrigerators are like the one in your home and are ordinarily seen on larges boats with an fullness of Ac power and space. The Ac powers the marine compressor, and the condenser is typically air cooled. A dependable Ac provide is needed in the form of a generator.

Dc marine refrigeration with Evaporator plate

 One of the cheapest marine refrigeration system and easiest to setup is the 12 v or Dc system. Air cooling is the simplest. The Dc system combined with an evaporator plate that is thermostatically controlled gives flexibility over cooling requirements. Many 12 volt systems use the Danfoss compressor. With the increased efficiency of the Danfoss compressor, Dc refrigeration onboard is getting more efficient, but is still power hungry.

For most boats with a small box, a singular 12V compressor, air cooled condenser, with evaporator type plate will be about the cheapest option. The Adler Barbour Cold engine has been around for around 25 years and provides great refrigeration for small to medium size ice boxes. 

Shore powered marine refrigeration

Shore powered systems are made to vocalize the boat's ice box at set climatic characteristic when the boat is at the dock. They offer less power than direct from an engine drive but since you will be at the dock for a while that is not an issue.

If you use a retention plate and shore powered system you can keep the plate cool while away from the dock for 12 hours or so.

 Engine powered marine refrigeration

The idea behind an engine driven compressor system is that the engine gets used anyway for at lest an hour or so. If you are Powerboating this makes sense, if you are sailing calculate how much time you use the engine.

If this is the case an engine drive with a retention plate can draw down the ice box in a short duration and after that it can be left for 12 plus hours.

The compressor is run directly off the engine. Belt driven or direct compressor, There are two plates and you can add more, plus ad a detach freezer unit. This creates much power and fast cooling of the retention plate. More power than a 110 volt system. Larger systems and multiple plates are possible. engine driven systems cost more and also involve a labor higher cost    

Condenser Cooling

The marine refrigeration systems condenser needs cooling. This is how the refrigerant gets cooled and turned into a liquid. There are 3 ways to cool the condenser;

Air Cooled

Air cooling simplifies facility plus it does not rely on water or adding thru hulls. It is therefore the cheapest installation. For smaller units air cooling is Ok, say 4 cu ft or under 6 cu ft you will get sufficient performance. The air cooling unit needs a sufficient provide of re-circulated air for it to work. Ducting and space around the unit will help this.

When you cool by air flow you remove heat from the condenser and ad it to the ambient temperature. The climatic characteristic inside of the cabin only has sufficient capacity to disperse this heat.

Water cooled Condenser

Water cooled compressors will work best in higher ambient temperatures and are more effective and can be 30% more efficient. Water cooling may be best and is best for larger installs especially if freezer is concerned. Water cooling needs a thru hull and a pump to get the water to the condenser. The most effective way to cool the condenser

Keel cooler Condenser

The keel cooler or keel condenser requires no thru hull fitting and will not be field to clogging. The keel cooler is a 3" x 7" bronze plate that mounts on the surface of the hull and it is the condenser heat exchanger. The bronze plates are linked direct to the compressor which is the only tantalizing part in the system. The Keel Cooler is for a box up to a 15 cu ft refrigerator or 5 cu ft freezer. Since all the heat is passed into the water surface the boat it will does not heat up the interior. Since it works without a water pump there is never a pump or strainer to vocalize and best of all it is nearly silent in operation.

Refrigeration Compressor & plate Combination

Before we pick a size of marine refrigerator we need to understand what factors are complicated in retention the refrigeration box cool. They are mainly box size, insulation and cooling water temperature, number of population aboard and the climatic characteristic you are setting the plates for.

Refrigerator Box Volume

This is obvious, the larger the box the more heat dismissal is necessary. A larger box will need more Btus of heat removal. After this basic size issue we have things like, Front opening or top opening. Front opening lets cold air out swiftly but does allow you to get to the bottom of the box. Drains, if you had a drain for you ice box plug it. You will not need to drain water out of the ice box and this will only let cold air out and heat in. Gaskets, these are a must and must be properly sealed. A trick to recognize if there are gaps in the gasket is to put a piece of paper in in the middle of the lid or door and the cabinet and close it. Pull on the paper and you should feel some drag if the gaskets are sealing properly. It comes out actually there is a gap. Get new or best gasket material.

Insulation  

Typical insulation to a fridge or freezer is foam insulation like Dow Blue board. The suggestion is for 3-4 inches for refrigeration and 4-6 inches for freezer for medium sized boxes. Foam has an R value of 5 per inch thickness, R being a thermal unit. This means in terms of thermal units 3-4 inches represents 15-20R value for the refrigeration unit, and 20-30 for the freezer.

There are manufacturers of vacuum panel thermal insulation. The Glacier bay fence Ultra-R super-insulation at R-50 per inch provides lots of insulation without taking up critical volume. These panels are vacuum panels and are sealed to work. It is very leading that you do not drill through or puncture these panels. These panels are practice made, so you would need to provide the manufacturer, exact sizes with locations for copper plate tubes to enter the box. These are built into the panels.

Water temperature

In the tropics water climatic characteristic is a lot warmer then northern climates. For every degree water climatic characteristic increases a corresponding 2 % increase in required Btu. If you are in the Atlantic portions of the east coast Us, you have some cool sea water temps, but of you then cruise down to the Caribbean you may strain your refrigeration system.

Plate Thermostat

The evaporator plate climatic characteristic is set by the thermostat. Dial the box climatic characteristic down and the system will have to work harder.

Number of population aboard

More population means the box gets opened more and the heat build up from more population adds to the ambient temperature.

How big a Refrigeration system is required?

To calculate how big a refrigeration or marine freezing unit required, you will need to start with an assessment of the Btu requirements of the box. A simple rule of thumb for estimating the Btus is based on the box volume.

These Btu estimations are based on these assumptions;

- Insulation has an R value of 30 no leaks.
- Water temperatures are tropical in the mid 80s F.
- 2 population aboard, for each extra man add an additional 1,000 daily Btu
- Top opening box, for a front opening door add 15 Btu/inch of door

Btu assessment on refrigeration volume;

Refrigerator daily heat load; 600 Btu per cu. Ft.

Freezer daily heat load; 1200 Btu per cu. Ft

Lets look at how this works for the 4 cu ft refrigeration system, using the above formula

4 cu. Ft. Times 600  =   2,400 Btu.

Two additional population on board =   2,000 Btu.

Total required per day   = 4,400 Btu

Choosing 12 volt unit with Evaporator

Match this number to the compressor capabilities, and then calculate amps needed to power the system, and then work on the battery bank capability. Start by using the 4,400 Btu form the above example. The Adler Barbour Cold engine uses the Danfoss Bd50 Compressor is rated at 650Btu / hr based on 25F evaporator temp.

This is well above the 4,400/day we need for the 4 cu ft fridge, using only about 1/3 of the power. We could actually go down the Danfoss Db35.

Amps

To calculate how many amps the system will draw we start by converting Btus to amps with this formula, using an assumption of 5 Btus per watt hr of energy used. Btu/5/volts. So say we have 4400 Btus and 12 volts, 4,400/5/12=74 amp hours/day.

Battery Bank

The Amps needed to power the compressor should be 1/4 of the capacity of the house bank. So for the above 74 amp hours needed multiply by 4 to get recommended house battery capacity = 296 amp hrs

Conclusion

These days being on the water means retention food and drinks cold. 12 volt refrigeration units are becoming more beloved with technological advances. Greater compressor efficiency and evaporator technology brings 12 volt cooling to the smallest of boats.

marine Refrigeration

refrigerator with bottom freezer

Refrigeration Maintenance, Walk-In Coolers and Freezers

Most refrigerators and walk-ins seem virtually indestructible and problem free, but you'll get longer life out of yours by following these protection and maintenance tips. Clean the door gaskets and hinges regularly. The door gaskets, made of rubber, can rot more of course if they are caked with food or grime, which weakens their sealing properties. They can be safely cleaned with a clarification of baking soda and warm water. Hinges can be rubbed with a bit of petroleum jelly to keep them working well. Dirty coils force the refrigerator to run hotter, which shortens the life of the compressor motor. They should be cleaned every 90 days, preferably with an industrial-strength vacuum cleaner.

Walk-in floors can be damp-mopped but should never be hosed out. Too much water can get into the seals between the floor panels and damage the insulation. A refrigerator only works as well as the air that's allowed to circulate nearby its contents. Cramming food containers together so there's not a spare inch of space nearby them doesn't help. Also try to keep containers (especially cardboard ones) from touching the walls of the cabinet. They may frost and stick to the walls, damaging both stock and wall. Use a good rotation system: First in, first out (Fifo) is preferable. Or put colored dots on food packages, a different color for each day of the week, so everyone in your kitchen knows how long each item has been in the fridge.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Walk-In Coolers And Freezers

A walk-in cooler is just what its name implies: a cooler big adequate to walk into. It can be as small as a closet or as large as a good-size room, but its traditional purpose is to contribute refrigerated storage for large quantities of food in a central area. Experts propose that your performance needs a walk-in when its refrigeration needs exceed 80 cubic feet, or if you serve more than 250 meals per day. Once again, you'll need to decide how much you need to store, what sizes of containers the storage space must accommodate, and the maximum quantity of goods you'll want to have on hand. The only way to use walk-in space wisely is to equip it with shelves, organized in sections. Exactly how much quadrate footage do you need? The easiest recipe is to think 1 to 1.5 cubic feet of walk-in storage for every meal you serve per day. Another basic calculation: Take the total estimate of linear feet of shelving you've decided you will need (A), and divide it by the estimate of shelves (B) you can put in each section.

This will give you the estimate of linear feet per section (C). To this estimate (C), add 40 to 50 percent (1.40 or 1.50) to cover "overflow"-volume increases, wasted space, and bulky items or loose product. This will give you an assessment of the total linear footage (D) needed. However, linear footage is not enough. Because shelves are three dimensional, you must think quadrate footage. So multiply (D) by the depth of each shelf (E) to regain the total quadrate footage estimate (F). Finally, duplicate the (F) figure, to compensate for aisle space. Approximately half of walk-in cooler space is aisle space. Another favorite recipe is to think that, for every 28 to 30 pounds of food you'll store, you will need 1 cubic foot of space. When you get that figure, multiply it by 2.5. (The factor 2.5 means only 40 percent of your walk-in will be used as storage space; the other 60 percent is aisles and space between products.)

The consequent is the size of the refrigerated storage area you will need. For a walk-in freezer, naturally divide your walk-in refrigerator space by two. Larger kitchens, which serve more than 400 meals a day, may need as many as three walk-in refrigerators for different climatic characteristic needs: one for produce (41 degrees Fahrenheit), one for meats and fish (33 to 38 degrees Fahrenheit), and one for dairy products (32 to 41 degrees Fahrenheit). The walk-in is used most often to store bulk foods. Because this often means wheeling carts or dollies in and out, the floor should be level with the kitchen floor.

This leveling is achieved by the use of strips (called screeds) that are applied to the floor. Coolers don't come as a singular unit; they are constructed on-site. The walls, ceilings, and floors are made of individual panels. Wall panels should be insulated to a rating of R-30, which means a 4-inch thickness. They come in various lengths and widths, with 12-by-12-inch angle panels at 90-degree angles. They can be as short as 71?2 feet or as tall as 131?2 feet. The most base type of insulation inside the panels is polyurethane, and the face walls of the panels can be made of stainless steel, vinyl, or aluminum. Stainless steel is the most expensive, and aluminum-because it's the least expensive-is the most favorite choice. If the walk-in is an outdoor installation, aluminum is the most weather resistant.

The installer will be sure the unit has interior lighting. The floor panels for walk-ins are similar to the wall panels. Load capacities of 600 pounds per quadrate foot are the norm, but if you plan to store very heavy items (like beer kegs), a reinforced floor can be purchased with a load capacity of up to 1000 pounds per quadrate foot. The refrigeration principles of a walk-in is a more complex factory than a approved refrigerator, primarily because it's so much bigger. Matching the principles (and its power requirements) with the dimensions of the walk-in and its projected use is best left to professionals, but it's prominent to note that a walk-in accessed often throughout the day will require a compressor with greater horsepower to avow its interior climatic characteristic than one that is accessed seldom.

A 9-foot-square walk-in would need at least a 2-horsepower compressor. The condenser unit is placed either on top of the walk-in (directly above the evaporator) or up to 25 feet away, with lines connecting it to the walk-in. The latter, for sure reasons, is known as a remote system, and is essential for larger-than-normal condensing units with capacities of up to 7.5 horsepower. In a remote system, the refrigerant must be added at the time of installation. For smaller walk-ins, there's also a plumbing configuration called a quick-couple system, which is shipped from the factory fully charged with refrigerant. This absolutely simplifies installation. However, you may need the added power of a remote principles if your kitchen has any of these drains on the walk-in's cooling ability: frequent door opening, glass display doors, many doors per compartment, or an ambient kitchen climatic characteristic that's near 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

Modern walk-ins sometimes offer a frozen-food section in increasing to the quarterly cooler space. There are pros and cons to this concept. It may ease the load on the freezer, because it's already placed inside a chilled airspace; but it also can't help but sacrifice allinclusive usable space, because it requires a detach door. You can also order your walk-in with a separate, reach-in section that has its own door and shelves. Although this may save the cost of purchasing a detach reach-in, some critics claim that a walk-in is not designed to do a reach-in job, such as storing uncovered desserts. Do you of course want them in the same environment as cartons of lettuce and other bulk storage items? There may be cleanliness or food quality factors to consider.

The doors should open out, not into the cooler itself. The approved door opening is 34 by 78 inches. Any door features are prominent for allowable walk-in operation. These include: A heavy-duty door closer. Self-closing, cam-lift door hinges. If the door can be opened past a 90-degree angle, the cam will hold it open. A heavy-duty stainless steel threshold. This is installed over the galvanized channel of the door frame. A pull-type door handle, with both a cylinder door lock and room to use a detach padlock if necessary. Pressure-sensitive vents, which preclude vacuum buildup when opening and conclusion the door. An interior protection release so no one can be (accidentally or otherwise) locked inside the cooler.

Other smart features that can be ordered for walk-ins are: A thermometer (designed for outdoor use, but mounted inside the cooler) with a range of 40 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. A monitoring and recording principles that keeps a printout of refrigeration climatic characteristic or downloads to a computer. Glass, full-length door panels (like those in supermarkets and convenience stores), sometimes called merchandising doors, either hinged or sliding. Heavy-duty plastic strip curtains inside the door. (One maker claims a 40 percent vigor savings with this feature.)

A foot treadle, which enables you to open the door by pressing on a pedal or lever with your foot when both hands are full. Three-way interior lighting, which can be turned on from face or inside the cooler, with a light-on indicator light outside. Inside, the light itself should be a vapor-proof bulb with an unbreakable globe and shield. When space is at a premium, think about either it is practical to setup an outdoor walk-in unit. This is an prudent way to add space without increasing the size of your kitchen, and you can buy ready-to-use, stand-alone structures with electricity and refrigeration systems in place. They come in approved sizes from 8 to 12 feet wide and up to 50 feet in length, in 1-foot increments.

They range in height from 7.5 to 9.5 feet. Look for a unit with a slanted, weatherproof roof, a weather hood, and a fully insulated floor. Outdoor walk-ins cost about half of the price of installing an indoor kitchen walk-in, so this is a money-saving idea if it works in your location. If your demands for walk-in space are seasonal, consider leasing a refrigerated trailer, available in most metropolitan areas on a weekly or monthly basis. They can contribute an instant 2000 cubic feet of further storage space, which can be kept at any climatic characteristic from 40 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. They use basic 60-amp, 230-volt, three-phase electricity. Ask if the lease bargain includes hookup at your site and aid if anyone goes wrong.

Refrigeration Maintenance, Walk-In Coolers and Freezers

one door refrigerator cheap refrigerator

The Perks of Using a lowest Freezer Refrigerator

Bottom freezer refrigerator units have been in use for years. These models are not as base as other refrigerators, mostly due to the popularity of top-mounted and side-door freezer models.

People stick by bottom-freezer models because of the ease of organizing the refrigerator. The most commonly used part of the unit, the main refrigeration cabinet, is located on top. This means that all the requisite items can be found at eye level. When person opens the top door, they can well place all of their food in clear view. The fact that heavier frosty items are stored at the lowest provides an added level of convenience for most people, since there is itsybitsy danger of accidentally dropping that frosty food.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Refrigerators with the freezer at the lowest are also beloved by buyers because the less-opened freezer compartment is at the lower half of the fridge. Since freezers are best left unopened to keep cooling efficient, having the compartment at the lowest part means it is left undisturbed longer, and so cools more efficiently. These same models also have a tendency of having more freezer space than top freezer refrigerator models do, and this lets population store more frosty goods.

While some population may opt for side-by-side freezer refrigerator models when choosing with freezer space in mind, the lowest freezer refrigerator units highlight great vigor efficiency than these side-door units. vigor Star readings narrative that the vigor usage of refrigerators with the freezer at the lowest is 16% less than side-freezer types.

The Perks of Using a lowest Freezer Refrigerator

glass refrigerator doors

Haier Refrigerators

"Inspired Living", the punch line of the globally illustrious brand of Haier inspires habitancy to live to luxurious with a wide range of products. Haier launched its innovative products designed retention in mind the customers' needs. The firm claims to be producing innovative products that will transform the customer's daily living into inspired living. Products that promise to make your life your present better, the hereafter best in comparison to your yester. The firm promises "To be the most admired brand in India providing innovative, state of the art, user cordial products of lasting value to our customers".

Initially the brand started with only refrigerators, but this was the scene in the year 1984. Over the past 25 years the firm has grown and prospered a lot. Haier refrigerators have got worldwide recognition, despite getting a tough competition from other brands. The firm has categorized their refrigerator section into four and they are: bottom Mounted Refrigerator, Side by Side Refrigerator, Frost free Refrigerator and Direct Cool Refrigerator. All unique in their own way, equipped with newest technologies that gives you and your food a protective shield from the new age enemies like bacteria, fungi and germs.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

Yes, I know that now you habitancy are getting curious, there are many kinds of anxieties in your mind and the major one, "When there are so many other brands in the market, why should I go for Haier?". Before the boggling game in your mind gets tougher, let's solve it. The bodies are so formed that they take stress out of your life. The Refrigerators have the cutting edge, Vc fresh technology that does the job of retention your food wholesome but also retains the nutrition value assuring you wholesome living. The temperature changeable compartments and inbuilt intelligence highlight in some refrigerators operate temperatures in relation to the climatic conditions and compartment requirement. The Microbiological protection Technology stops the breeding of germs and bacteria, which can generate unhealthy environment for food items, thus, retention the food healthy. Each model of Haier refrigerators come equipped with an array of purposeful and user- cordial features.

These days, online shopping is very much in trend, you name it and you get it on your doorstep. You can get Haier Refrigerators through online shopping, as they are available in wide varieties on all the sites. Some of the online shopping sites, which can make purchases easy for you are: naaptol.com, shopping.rediff.com, compareindia.in.com, homeelegancecenter.com and many more. By just visiting these sites you can get an quick idea about what to buy as all the features, model types, availability at stores, prices are mentioned which can make your job very easy.

Despite having all these features, the Haier Refrigerators are not costly and can be purchased by anybody. The range starts from Rs. 6990 only. In the bottom price range, refrigerators like Haier Hrd 211 Bd, Haier Hrd 211 Rlc/ Glc/ Blc, Haier 211 Hgc/ Hrc, Haier Hrd 211 Mrx/ Nbx, Haier Hrd 231 Hp accommodate and their price ranging from Rs. 6990 to Rs. 10690 which makes them very suitable for any person.

Although its very difficult to make out that which is the best, but when features and funds are counted, the best is Haier Hrf 321 Mp which has a total capacity of 300 litres. It comes in twin door style and is equipped with frost free defrost system. Amounts just Rs.16990 which is quite uncostly any one can afford to buy these Refrigerators. So now you know why go for Haier!!

Haier Refrigerators

french door refrigerator side by side

Find Your Home Weather middle point

People don't often think that having a home weather hub can be a real bonus. This is particularly true if you live in an area that can be prone to severe and rapid changes in the weather such as tornadoes, hurricanes, or severe wind or ice storms.

Generally these storms are preceded by changes in the pressure readings. Knowing what those changes are, and watching for them can help you to keep your family safer.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

How do you find the best weather station, what does it take to be a good one, and how do you be sure that the one that you opt is cost-effective and convenient for you?

Choosing your home weather hub is best approached by taking a look at three dissimilar factors:

• Your Budget
• Your Needs
• Your Placement Opportunities

What is the best hub for you is going to be partly dictated by your budget. That doesn't mean that you can't get the best that you can afford. It means to get what you can afford and don't spend a vast sum of money on something that you not only can't afford, but has a studying curve that may take you months to overcome.

Getting a great weather hub can be complete for under 100 dollars. It will be one that will offer you pressure and temperature and humidity as well as other items that you'd like to see. Frankly, if you're not a weatherman, and do not honestly need heavy technology, then buying it is futile and a waste of money. Get the weather hub that you can afford, as well as the one that you need to achieve your tasks.

Some weather stations offer you some honestly superior software as well as the capability to join together to your computer and to offer your readings online on assorted websites. If you are into the more group aspects of weather networking, then this is the type of home weather hub that will be best for you and your intended purposes.

If you'd merely like to be able to read the temperature and the humidity and pressure, then one of the smaller models will work best for you and will also offer you the capability to place it in a less sunny area and make your readings more accurate.

Smaller models, not honestly a weather station, are equipped with an outdoor sensor and an indoor element to permit you a digital reading will typically cost about 30-50 dollars and work very well for your needs. They last several years and are a fairly spoton model. You can place them right face the door so they don't need any real special consideration.

Laser home weather stations may require a pole or a location that is away from the home somewhat to supply them with an spoton setting, will set you behind for about 300-400 for a good setup that will give you all of the puny details that you would like to have.

Set a cheap budge based on what you need and what you can honestly use.

Find Your Home Weather middle point

2 door compact refrigerator

Ways to choose a Refrigerator Lock

Refrigerator is the most critical domestic appliance and all the homemakers liked to use it everyday. However, one may take the help of the refrigerator lock if anything has a little child in the home.

Refrigerator locks help to stop the children to open the door of the refrigerators. There are separate types of locks that can be used in the refrigerator. The locks can be used in both the proper and double door refrigerators.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

One must fix the lock or latch at the upper part of the refrigerator so that the children will not get the lock in their hand. The locks are very good, as the children will not able to open or put anything inside the refrigerator. The elders of the house do not have to look over the whereabouts of the children and their naughty action.

There are separate types of locks and one can get to buy the locks from the online as well as from the shops. If anything wants to buy the locks from online market then they can see the reviews or comments from separate websites.

The modern refrigerators come with locks but one also add the latch or lock in the proper refrigerators. General refrigerators can be protected with the help of hasp and padlock.

The refrigerator locks are also beneficial to keep the refrigerator protected and safe from being unwanted invaders. The locks or latches are easy to open and they can be reopened very comfortably. One can open the locks very no ifs ands or buts and there are some locks, which are automated and need not wish any hardship to open.

Besides the children, many teenagers also like to open the doors of the refrigerator in the absence of their parents. The locks can also stop this bad habit. Therefore, the locks are fixed to safe the refrigerators from the useless trespassers.

The refrigerator locks are beneficial and advantageous as they help to stop to open the doors oftentimes and unnecessarily.

Ways to choose a Refrigerator Lock

glass refrigerator doors

How to Troubleshoot a Gas Dryer - Part One

If your gas dryer does not work at all you can check the power coming from your house, the door switch, timer, and thermal fuse. To check if there is power, first see if your dryer is plugged in. (Yes, it might sound stupid, but it happens more often than you'd think!) Does the power outlet where the dryer is plugged in work? To test that, plug a lamp or something else in the outlet and see if it works. Also, check the circuit breaker and see if something has tripped a circuit or blown a fuse. If your door switch is faulty, then that could be a hypothesize why your gas dryer doesn't work at all. Your door switch is located inside the dryer main housing next to the door frame. If the part tests out bad, then you should replace it. Next, you can check the timer to see if that is the problem, basically if there are open contacts in the timer it won't work. Lastly, you can check the thermal fuse. The fuse is unquestionably a safety precaution portion in the dryer; it will blow if your dryer overheats. This fuse is located on the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. If your fuse has blown, and you test it with ah ohm meter, it won't have continuity. If this is what is causing your dryer to not work at all, you will need to replace the fuse because it cannot be reset.

If your dryer is not heating, you can check the igniter, gas valve coils, and the thermal fuse. Most gas dryers use an electronic type of igniter to ignite the gas coming in from the gas valve. If it glows a arresting orange, it is working properly. When your igniter burns out, the dryer will still tumble your clothes, but there won't be heat because the gas cannot ignite. If your igniter is burned out you will need to replace it. The igniter is located inside the dryer housing, near the front and towards the bottom. The igniter is regularly in a metal cone shaped tube. It's mounted to the far end of the burner tube and it should have some wires attached to it, or to the tension bracket. The next thing you can test are the gas valve coils. The first thing to watch for is the igniter, if it glows orange and then shuts off without igniting the gas, then there may be some faulty coils on your gas valve. When these coils get energized, they open the gas valve. If they are faulty then the valve won't open and the gas can't ignite. If this is the case with your dryer, it's best to replace all of the coils at the same time. To check the thermal fuse, you can result the exact instructions I stated in the old paragraph.

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If your dryer takes too long to dry your clothes you can check the vent, the flame sensor/gas valve, internal ductwork, and the cycling thermostat. Most of the time there is some sort of clog inside the venting that goes from your dryer to outside of the house. For a dryer to heat up, the duct has to be clear of any sort of clog or lint. To clean this out, you can use a vacuum. Also, vent cleaning should be done at least once a year, if you do laundry often. Next, you can check the flame sensor/gas valve. The flame sensor is next to the igniter. The gas may shut off before the cycle is accomplished if the flame sensor is defective. Sometimes one of the electrical coils on the gas valve fails. If this happens, the flame will shut off before your thermostat can send a signal, which will make the drying time a lot longer. If the sensor or the coils are the problem, replace them. If your dryer's internal ductwork gets clogged, it won't be able to run correctly. Most of the time you will need to disassemble your dryer to reach the ductwork, to clean out the clog. You can check this fast by sliding out your lint filter, and use a flashlight to look inside the duct. If you see a buildup of lint, you should clean it out with a vacuum. However, if you can't remove the clog with a vacuum, you might call a serviceman to do that for you. The cycling thermostat is not a coarse hypothesize why your dryer would take a long time to dry clothes, however it does happen sometimes. If this thermostat breaks, it can cause your dryer to heat improperly. You should replace it if it is faulty.

In summary, if this guide did not help you fix your problem, you should caress an appliance technician to fix it. However, I hope this narrative was handy in giving you some facts on how to troubleshoot your gas dryer in the future. In my next narrative I will help troubleshoot some more coarse gas dryer problems.

How to Troubleshoot a Gas Dryer - Part One

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power Efficiency - How the Right Refrigerator Can Save You Money

Refrigerators inventory for almost 5 to 20 percent of our monthly power bills. Buying the right refrigerator and using it wisely can make a significant impact on our ecological footprint and our power bills. Even minor changes in family habit patterns of refrigerator use can follow in surprising savings over the procedure of a year. Keep reading for 5 tips you can do for both.

1. Setting your refrigerator to the right temperature.

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Ideally, your refrigerator's thermostat should be set to in any place between 37 and 40 degrees, and your freezer should be between 0 and 5 degrees. Setting your refrigerator a mere 10 degrees cooler can cost you as much as 25 percent more per month.

2. Spend in an power Star certified refrigerator.

While the preliminary cost of an power sufficient refrigerator will likely be higher than an uncertified model, you'll make back the extra cost after just a few short years of dramatic savings on your utility bills. Modern power Star certified refrigerators made today are over 150 percent more sufficient than their 1980s counterparts. That means trading up can save major dollars.

3. Clean and enounce your refrigerator coils.

The back of a refrigerator is a magnet for dirt and dust. Those dirty coils stop your refrigerator from working at maximum efficiency and wind up costing you money. To clean you refrigerator coils, pull the fridge out from the wall and unplug it. Then, using the brush attachment on your vacuum cleaner, give the coils a suitable sweep.

When you're done, remove the panel on the lowest front of your refrigerator (it should snap off) and clean those coils as well. Halt up by cleaning the floor under your refrigerator and rolling it back into place.

4. Seal your gaskets.

Your freezer and refrigerator doors have rubber gaskets on them that seal them and keep the cold air inside. If a gasket is damaged or worn out, your refrigerator has to work extra hard to keep the inner air cool. This costs you money.

To test the seals, close the door on a sheet of paper. When you pull the paper out, you should feel the gasket gripping on to it. If it slips out easily, you need to replace your gaskets.

5. Level your refrigerator.

A refrigerator works by using a compressor to pump refrigerant straight through its coils. If your fridge isn't level, this takes more energy. While refrigerators are designed to tilt slightly backwards (to keep the door closed), they need to be level from side to side.

power Efficiency - How the Right Refrigerator Can Save You Money

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Washing Machines, Engineer Shares Trade Tips - Banish Horrible Black Stains on Door Seals

In my many years of repairing varied washing machines and tumble dryers, it is only this last 4 or 5 years that I have noticed the door gaskets (The rubber seal round the door of washing machines) turning black. It is happening to detergent drawers too. It is becoming a big problem and if you don't know how to take off it. Then it will soon start to stain the clothes you are trying to wash, your washing motor will smell bad and it may well break down soon. Before I tell you how I take off the horrible black stains, lets look first at what may be the cause of them. When I started repairing washers and dryers over 30 years ago, it was fairly normal to be working on a motor that was already 20 years old and had plentifulness more use left in it. I don't see that any more these days, in my sense you are doing well if your motor lasts 5 years and I commonly see machines at 2 years old that are ready for the recycling heap.

And all those years ago, I never saw horrible black slime growing on door gaskets or in detergent drawers. So what has changed? Well, today's machines use much less water than the old ones. We also wash at very low temperatures day in and day out. I also think more of us use liquid detergent and we are being good consumers, using far too much of everything (Detergent and softener) The black stains on door gaskets and in detergent drawers are in my opinion, just a build up of fungus, mould and bacteria. It well starts to grow into the rubber of the door gasket and even a good hard scrub wont shift it because it's well growing into it.

Door Gasket Refrigerator

When low temperatures are used all the time, then there is nothing to kill the bacteria. There is nothing in the detergent to kill it and the low wash temperatures well encourage it to grow. To kill bacteria, mould and fungus you need heat or chemicals and we are not well using that any more. We are in fact giving the bacteria etc. everything it needs to thrive.

Mild Heat. (That's the temperature we are all washing at these days)
Moisture (When your motor is not being used, it is a very moist place)
Lack of Light (Inside a Washing motor is not the brightest place around)

So that's my plan as to why we are having these problems now. In the Uk I see that the Vanish enterprise have brought out an in wash anti-bacterial additive, It's a good idea and it may help to stop this problem in future. What can be done to take off this black mould etc.? Scrubbing won't work, it will sell out it slightly, but you will be damaging the rubber, so don't do it. I have found that commonplace house hold bleach will take off it, but it needs to be left on for at least 12 hours. So just pouring it on the rubber is no good as it will run off and be wasted. Here is what I do.

Soak a dish cloth in bleach and lay it right on top of the door rubber, where the stains are worst. Tidy up the edges and flat the cloth out so it is in direct sense with the stains. Then leave it over night or for at least 12 hours. This will kill the fungus and clean the rubber right up. If your dish cloth doesn't cover all of the stain, then treat each area separately over a combine of days until all the black stains are gone.

Before using your washing machine, set it on a rinse cycle, to wash the door gasket and wash away any traces of bleach left, before putting any laundry in to it. Now to clean out the Detergent drawer and holder (The place the detergent dispenser slides into). Dissimilar machines have Dissimilar ways of removing the detergent drawer. If you are not sure how to do this, check the instructions for your machine. Or "Google" free instructions for your make and model of machine.

The same formula for cleaning rubber door gaskets works for detergent drawers as well, except, do give the drawer a good scrub 1st (It's much stronger than a rubber gasket and will take no harm) Again make sure the cloth which is wet with bleach comes into direct sense with the stains. Just like the guidance for cleaning a washing motor door gasket, leave for at least 12 hours and repeat if needed.

To clean the compartment that the drawer slides into (still with the drawer removed)

You will need a dish scrubber. You know the type, you see them in Supermarkets (plastic deal with with a bristle head) You don't need a top of the line one, I find the funds ones are the best. Give the inside of the detergent compartment a good clean with a dish scrubber, dip it into some water and clean the compartment out 3 or 4 times. Caution. This next step can be hazardous so I won't tell you to do it. I will instead tell you what I do. If you want to do as I do, it's up to you. I Spray normal house hold bleach into the compartment and leave it for an hour or so.

I have not been able to find a good spray bleach, so I pour some quarterly house hold bleach into an old spray bottle. The type with a direct spray and not a mist type spray is best. I kneel in front of the motor and stay well back, holding the spray bottle at arms length. I always wear safety goggles (I don't want my eyes bleached) and just spray into the open detergent compartment, making sure to give the inside top part, a good covering. After about an hour, a good wipe out with a terry type towel brings the compartment up like new. Congratulations, you now have a washing motor which is nice and clean and won't be staining your laundry or smelling too bad.

Now to keep it that way. Turn up the temperature once a week.

Bed sheets and towels should be washed at 60 degrees. 15, 30 or 40 degrees is not killing germs (mould, dust mites etc.)

Wash these items once a week at 60 degrees. It will help to kill germs and it will keep your motor seeing and smelling fresh. Low temperature washes may well use less electricity per wash, but if it means you are having to buy a new Washing motor every 2 years. Are you well salvage anything? Never mind the mould, fungus, bacteria and dust mites you haven't killed.

I suggest that you use 50% less detergent than is recommended on the packet. (A nice help to our Planet) and your pocket. I don't use fabric conditioner at all. Did you know that the more detergent you use, the more conditioner you need to use as well. It's the detergent and conditioner splashing up inside the detergent drawer, as it's being washed out, that causes the horrible black gunge in a detergent drawer. I don't use it at all. I use white vinegar instead. That's white, or clear (it looks just like water) and is often called "Distilled Vinegar" The vinegar goes into the compartment in the detergent drawer where the fabric conditioner would go. I just fill it up with vinegar.

No, my clothes don't smell of vinegar and I have one gleaming clean and fresh smelling washing motor (8 years old now). The vinegar is also de-scaling my washing motor and it's cheaper than buying de-scaling tablets in the Supermarket.

So to re-cap. When you have your Washing motor all cleaned up. Keep it clean by doing at least one hot wash per week (60 degrees) Cut right down on the estimate of detergents and fabric conditioner you use (nice minuscule salvage for you) consider replacing the fabric conditioner you use now with "Distilled" white or clear vinegar. You will save money, your clothes won't be picking up stains from a dirty door gasket, the vinegar de-scales and cleans your machine, so it should last longer which just might help the environment a tiny bit.

Washing Machines, Engineer Shares Trade Tips - Banish Horrible Black Stains on Door Seals

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Defrosting Tips For Your Fridge & Freezer

Are you thinking of defrosting formula for your freezer or fridge? Then check this out.

Always switch off and unplug the freezer before cleaning or defrosting.

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Load the contents of your freezer into large dustbin bags and cover the bags with a duvet or blanket. The food should stay icy for several hours. But use a cool box for ice cream or soup which melt quickly.

After defrosting, wash fridges and freezers with a explication of two teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda to 1 litre (2 pints) of warm water-it removes lingering smells.

Rub the inside of your freezer with glycerine, ready from chemists, after it has defrosted. When you next have to defrost it, the ice will come away from the sides more easily.

Use a wet/dry vacuum cleaner to suck up any water left on the floor.

Defrosting fridge/freezers is much easier with a two-control model. That way, you can use the fridge to keep foodstuffs icy while you deal with the freezer.

If you do not like defrosting, you can all the time pay more for a frost-free freezer which never needs it.

Replacing a worn seal

If your fridge door will not close properly, or the inside of the fridge seems warmer than it should be, the seal colse to the door may have gone. Check it by end a thin strip of paper in the door. When the door is shut, the paper should be tightly gripped, and should not slide easily.

If you want to convert the seal (also known as the gasket) yourself, buy a new one from a stockiest listed in the yellow Pages under 'refrigerator repairs'. Check with the shop or the manufacturers how to replace it, or call in an engineer.

Is your fridge green enough?

One of the major causes of concern about the world ozone layer is the use of chlorofluorocarbon - chemicals that are used in a fridge insulation and cooling system. New technology has developed a non-chlorofluorocarbon coolant, but how do you get rid of an old fridge or freezer?

If you buy a new fridge or freezer from a major freezer centre, it will probably procure your old one free of fee and take off the chlorofluorocarbon safety before it recycled.

Sell your old fridge, do not scrap it. Or look out for notices in your area telling you who are recycling old fridges. Ask the local authority.

If you are buying a fridge/freezer, look into how power efficient it is. Some use more electricity than others- the manufacturers will be able to tell you how much - so compare the distinct models.

Defrosting Tips For Your Fridge & Freezer

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